Friday, 17 July 2015
ANA MARIA'S INJURY UPDATE
Ana María went to see our sports physio today about her foot. It turns out she has a stress fracture of the second metatarsal! Luckily the treatment she undertook whilst on the walk i.e. applying ice, anti-inflammatory gel and putting her foot up, paid off and there is no permanent damage. The treatment continues with no serious walking allowed for several days. In the meantime we have been relaxing today visiting our grandson, Austin.
Wednesday, 8 July 2015
DAY 58 - CORCUBION TO CAPE FINISTERRE - 20 KMS
Woke up this morning to brilliant sunshine. What a contrast to yesterday! We set off at 7:30am a bit later than usual and immediately encountered the main challenge of the day. A very steep and rocky climb! Once we got our second wind, the rest of the day was plain sailing (forgive the pun!). Through lovely mountain tracks, woods and meadows with fantastic views of the coast below. Lovely sunshine and a cool breeze as well. What a fantastic day to end our very long walk!
We reached Finisterre in good time. Then came the very long walk along the coastal path through Finisterre and the trek to Cape Finisterre, a few kilometres further along. When we reached the kilometre zero marker and the end of our 800 mile walk, we hugged, said "well done!" to each other and found no other words to describe how we felt.
It is amazing that one can walk so many miles almost without realising it. I remember a quote that goes “You never know what's around the corner. It could be everything. Or it could be nothing. You keep putting one foot in front of the other, and then one day you look back and you've climbed a mountain.” In our case several!
This has been without any doubt the toughest walk we have ever done. No doubt it will take us a few days to remember everything we have been through during the past 58 days, but this walk has taken us to the very limits and beyond that which we thought we were capable of doing. We will remember the good moments and the not so good moments, the laughs we've had on the way, which have been many and frequent, the fleeting moments nourished by exhaustion when we thought of giving up only to immediately put such mad thoughts out of our minds, the fantastic people we have met on the way, my 70th birthday, blisters, more blisters, even more blisters, Ana Maria's swollen foot, the dreadful attack by a swarm of very aggressive bees, having our packs rifled through and an item stolen, the daily discipline we have had to observe irrespective of how one felt, mostly 05:15am alarm call, dressing, breakfast at 6:00am, on the road by 06:30am, six or seven hours walking, sometimes more, arriving at our destination, having a shower, washing our clothes, hoping they will have dried by morning, having something to eat, chatting with fellow walkers, writing the blog in English and Spanish, posting it subject to wifi connections, going to bed.....only to repeat the same procedure the following day, urged on by words of encouragement from relatives and friends and by all of you who have shared our journey. Thank you for being there with us throughout our adventure. Your presence has helped us on our way, on our Camino.
Tonight we went back to Cape Finisterre (this time by taxi) to see the sunset at 10:17pm. What a wondrous sight and what a fantastic end to a fantastic day to a fantastic journey!
Tomorrow afternoon we take a bus to Santiago, where we will stay until Saturday, when we fly home. Home to see our children and our grandchildren whom we haven't seen in two months! We hope that one day our grandchildren will spot our Footsteps on the Camino and may be tempted to follow them. It may show them that no matter what obstacles life puts in your way, all things are possible, if you try. We have tried and on this occasion at least, we have succeeded. ULTREIA!
We reached Finisterre in good time. Then came the very long walk along the coastal path through Finisterre and the trek to Cape Finisterre, a few kilometres further along. When we reached the kilometre zero marker and the end of our 800 mile walk, we hugged, said "well done!" to each other and found no other words to describe how we felt.
It is amazing that one can walk so many miles almost without realising it. I remember a quote that goes “You never know what's around the corner. It could be everything. Or it could be nothing. You keep putting one foot in front of the other, and then one day you look back and you've climbed a mountain.” In our case several!
This has been without any doubt the toughest walk we have ever done. No doubt it will take us a few days to remember everything we have been through during the past 58 days, but this walk has taken us to the very limits and beyond that which we thought we were capable of doing. We will remember the good moments and the not so good moments, the laughs we've had on the way, which have been many and frequent, the fleeting moments nourished by exhaustion when we thought of giving up only to immediately put such mad thoughts out of our minds, the fantastic people we have met on the way, my 70th birthday, blisters, more blisters, even more blisters, Ana Maria's swollen foot, the dreadful attack by a swarm of very aggressive bees, having our packs rifled through and an item stolen, the daily discipline we have had to observe irrespective of how one felt, mostly 05:15am alarm call, dressing, breakfast at 6:00am, on the road by 06:30am, six or seven hours walking, sometimes more, arriving at our destination, having a shower, washing our clothes, hoping they will have dried by morning, having something to eat, chatting with fellow walkers, writing the blog in English and Spanish, posting it subject to wifi connections, going to bed.....only to repeat the same procedure the following day, urged on by words of encouragement from relatives and friends and by all of you who have shared our journey. Thank you for being there with us throughout our adventure. Your presence has helped us on our way, on our Camino.
Tonight we went back to Cape Finisterre (this time by taxi) to see the sunset at 10:17pm. What a wondrous sight and what a fantastic end to a fantastic day to a fantastic journey!
Tomorrow afternoon we take a bus to Santiago, where we will stay until Saturday, when we fly home. Home to see our children and our grandchildren whom we haven't seen in two months! We hope that one day our grandchildren will spot our Footsteps on the Camino and may be tempted to follow them. It may show them that no matter what obstacles life puts in your way, all things are possible, if you try. We have tried and on this occasion at least, we have succeeded. ULTREIA!
DIA 58 - CORCUBIÔN A FINISTERRA
Hoy completamos el epílogo del Camino de Santiago a Finisterra.
Un hermoso día, claro, sin mucho calor y con una brisa agradable.
Después de una subida empinada por sendero pedregoso salimos a una carretera y caminamos por asfalto hasta la playa de Sardiñero. De ahí subimos por otro sendero hasta la cima de la montaña donde había unas vistas increíbles al mar, playas y con el faro de Finisterra a lo lejos. Todo lo que no pudimos ver ayer hoy fue increíblemente claro y hermoso.
Bajamos hasta la playa y continuamos por el paseo marítimo hasta Finisterra. Llegando al puerto subimos 3 kms por carretera hasta el faro. Este lugar se conocía antiguamente como 'el fin del mundo'. Allí se encuentra el mojón de 0 kms que señala el fin del Camino! Una mezcla de emociones al terminar nuestra gran aventura: satisfacción, alegría, alivio, tristeza y un deje espiritual. Ese momento vivirá para siempre en nuestra memoria...
Esta noche volvimos al faro (pero esta vez en taxi!) para ver la puesta del sol. Un espectáculo increíble! Había gran visibilidad y mucha gente se reunió para verlo, muchos de ellos caminantes/peregrinos que, como nosotros, han terminado sus Caminos.
Comparto un poema de Antonio Machado, muy especial para mí:
Caminante, son tus huellas
el camino y nada mas;
Caminante, no hay camino,
se hace camino al andar.
Al andar se hace el camino,
y al volver la vista atrás
se ve la senda que nunca
se ha de volver a pisar.
Caminante no hay camino
sino estelas en la mar.
Un hermoso día, claro, sin mucho calor y con una brisa agradable.
Después de una subida empinada por sendero pedregoso salimos a una carretera y caminamos por asfalto hasta la playa de Sardiñero. De ahí subimos por otro sendero hasta la cima de la montaña donde había unas vistas increíbles al mar, playas y con el faro de Finisterra a lo lejos. Todo lo que no pudimos ver ayer hoy fue increíblemente claro y hermoso.
Bajamos hasta la playa y continuamos por el paseo marítimo hasta Finisterra. Llegando al puerto subimos 3 kms por carretera hasta el faro. Este lugar se conocía antiguamente como 'el fin del mundo'. Allí se encuentra el mojón de 0 kms que señala el fin del Camino! Una mezcla de emociones al terminar nuestra gran aventura: satisfacción, alegría, alivio, tristeza y un deje espiritual. Ese momento vivirá para siempre en nuestra memoria...
Esta noche volvimos al faro (pero esta vez en taxi!) para ver la puesta del sol. Un espectáculo increíble! Había gran visibilidad y mucha gente se reunió para verlo, muchos de ellos caminantes/peregrinos que, como nosotros, han terminado sus Caminos.
Comparto un poema de Antonio Machado, muy especial para mí:
Caminante, son tus huellas
el camino y nada mas;
Caminante, no hay camino,
se hace camino al andar.
Al andar se hace el camino,
y al volver la vista atrás
se ve la senda que nunca
se ha de volver a pisar.
Caminante no hay camino
sino estelas en la mar.
DAY 58 - CORCUBION TO CAPE FINISTERRE
WE HAVE ARRIVED AT THE LEGENDARY END OF THE WORLD!
¡HEMOS LLEGADO AL LEGENDARIO FIN DEL MUNDO!
After more than 800 miles we completed our walk today arriving at Km 0 in Cape Finisterre at 12:15pm. More details later.
Después de más de 1200kms hemos completado nuestra caminata llegando al km 0 del Cabo de Finisterra. Mas información luego.
¡HEMOS LLEGADO AL LEGENDARIO FIN DEL MUNDO!
After more than 800 miles we completed our walk today arriving at Km 0 in Cape Finisterre at 12:15pm. More details later.
Después de más de 1200kms hemos completado nuestra caminata llegando al km 0 del Cabo de Finisterra. Mas información luego.
Tuesday, 7 July 2015
DAY 57 - OLVEIROA TO CORCUBION - 23KMS
Today can best be described as foggy and wet, wet and foggy in equal measure!
We left at 07:30am engulfed in thick fog, the morning dew seeping into every pore of our rucksack, clothes and body. One hour later the soft rain came, almost like an English rain but much finer. We looked at each other and said "both weather forecasts we looked at said no rain today; it will pass".
By the time we realised this was not going to happen it was too late. We were soaked to the skin! Too late to don our ponchos so we carried on regardless. Five and a half hours later we arrived in Corcubion, looking like drowned rats! What miserable weather! One of the things we were looking forward to today was the first sight of the sea after nearly two months walking. We could not see beyond twenty metres! The sight from the top of the mountain overlooking the town of Cee is one of the most beautiful sights we saw on our last walk. Could we see it this time. No! From that vantage point one can normally see Finisterre in the far distance. No way, nothing!
It was only after negotiating a very long and very steep rocky path down to the seashore that we spied the sea, through the mist. After a brief stop at a bar for a coffee we carried on to Corcubion where we stopped for lunch. The lunch made up for the lost morning. Lovely fresh salad, pimientos de Padron, pulpo a la Gallega, Chipirones and gulas al ajillo, followed by cheesecake and coffee! And then on to the hotel for a shower and a siesta. This evening the sun has made an appearance and we are sitting out on a lovely terrace overlooking the bay, dreaming of tomorrow when we reach the end of our long Camino. Joy and sadness in equal measure at the thought of finishing.
Tomorrow we are promised sunshine. It will be a great day for us whatever happens. Another adventure almost over. To quote Ernest Hemingway "“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” So far this journey has been amazing. Thank you for sharing it with us. See you at the finish!
We left at 07:30am engulfed in thick fog, the morning dew seeping into every pore of our rucksack, clothes and body. One hour later the soft rain came, almost like an English rain but much finer. We looked at each other and said "both weather forecasts we looked at said no rain today; it will pass".
By the time we realised this was not going to happen it was too late. We were soaked to the skin! Too late to don our ponchos so we carried on regardless. Five and a half hours later we arrived in Corcubion, looking like drowned rats! What miserable weather! One of the things we were looking forward to today was the first sight of the sea after nearly two months walking. We could not see beyond twenty metres! The sight from the top of the mountain overlooking the town of Cee is one of the most beautiful sights we saw on our last walk. Could we see it this time. No! From that vantage point one can normally see Finisterre in the far distance. No way, nothing!
It was only after negotiating a very long and very steep rocky path down to the seashore that we spied the sea, through the mist. After a brief stop at a bar for a coffee we carried on to Corcubion where we stopped for lunch. The lunch made up for the lost morning. Lovely fresh salad, pimientos de Padron, pulpo a la Gallega, Chipirones and gulas al ajillo, followed by cheesecake and coffee! And then on to the hotel for a shower and a siesta. This evening the sun has made an appearance and we are sitting out on a lovely terrace overlooking the bay, dreaming of tomorrow when we reach the end of our long Camino. Joy and sadness in equal measure at the thought of finishing.
Tomorrow we are promised sunshine. It will be a great day for us whatever happens. Another adventure almost over. To quote Ernest Hemingway "“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” So far this journey has been amazing. Thank you for sharing it with us. See you at the finish!
DIA 57 - OLVEIROA A CORCUBIÔN
La etapa de hoy fue de 23 kms. La niebla fue aumentando a medida que avanzábamos. Casi todo el tiempo caminamos por senderos entre bosques. Un sube y baja como los últimos días pero no muy empinados. A la hora mas o menos empezó a caer una llovizna muy fina que terminó por empaparnos. Una fuerte bajada por un camino empedrado nos condujo hasta la entrada de Cee.
Habíamos esperado ver el mar por primera vez desde que salimos de Alicante y también el Cabo de Finisterra en la lejanía desde la cima de la montaña pero la niebla espesa no lo permitió. Lástima! Nos acordábamos de la hermosa vista que tuvimos hace cinco años pero... no pudo ser. Así es el Camino, nunca igual...
Dos kms después de Cee, caminando por al lado de la playa, llegamos a Corcubión, nuestra última parada antes de Finisterra. Allí recién paró la llovizna.
Tanto Cee como Corcubión fueron habitados por los celtas y sus habitantes se dedicaron por siglos a la pesca de ballenas y cachalotes. En la ensenada de Caneliñas hubo una factoría ballenera desde 1924 que se mantuvo activa hasta 1995, siendo la última en España en cerrar sus puertas.
Mañana llegaremos al cabo de Finisterra, nuestro destino final! Parece mentira que ya estemos tan cerca...
Habíamos esperado ver el mar por primera vez desde que salimos de Alicante y también el Cabo de Finisterra en la lejanía desde la cima de la montaña pero la niebla espesa no lo permitió. Lástima! Nos acordábamos de la hermosa vista que tuvimos hace cinco años pero... no pudo ser. Así es el Camino, nunca igual...
Dos kms después de Cee, caminando por al lado de la playa, llegamos a Corcubión, nuestra última parada antes de Finisterra. Allí recién paró la llovizna.
Tanto Cee como Corcubión fueron habitados por los celtas y sus habitantes se dedicaron por siglos a la pesca de ballenas y cachalotes. En la ensenada de Caneliñas hubo una factoría ballenera desde 1924 que se mantuvo activa hasta 1995, siendo la última en España en cerrar sus puertas.
Mañana llegaremos al cabo de Finisterra, nuestro destino final! Parece mentira que ya estemos tan cerca...
Monday, 6 July 2015
DAY 56 - SANTA MARIÑA TO OLVEIROA - 14KMS
A very short day today - only 14 Kms! Our decision to allow an extra day to reach Finisterre is paying off. Ana Maria's foot has been swelling up again and a shorter day means more recuperation time. We have also been able to rest up a bit longer.
The walk today has been pleasant, although we have been walking mainly on narrow mountain roads. A very misty morning which meant we were unable to see the Embalse da Fervenza, normally a beautiful sight first thing in the morning. The scenery is still very reminiscent of that back home, with rolling hills full of various shades of green. Cornfields are still predominant, basking in very pleasant sunshine. Today we have a private room in an Albergue in the village of Olveiroa. There are lots of people here today as it is the place to stop for those doing a short stage, as we are, and those who have been walking some 35kms to reach here today!
Tomorrow we will see the sea for the first time since we started this walk back on the 12th of May. We remember the thrill well from our last walk through here five years ago. We will reach the coast at the town of Cee. As we will be approaching from a mountain top we have a very steep descent along a difficult track to negotiate before we can reach the coast. I will keep my knee strap handy, just in case. This time instead of stopping in Cee as we did last time, we will be continuing a few more kilometres to Corcubion. This way our last stage to Finisterre will be that little bit shorter. From the town of Finisterre to the lighthouse at Cape Finisterre is another three kilometres, and the end of the road for us! The finish is in sight (almost!).
The walk today has been pleasant, although we have been walking mainly on narrow mountain roads. A very misty morning which meant we were unable to see the Embalse da Fervenza, normally a beautiful sight first thing in the morning. The scenery is still very reminiscent of that back home, with rolling hills full of various shades of green. Cornfields are still predominant, basking in very pleasant sunshine. Today we have a private room in an Albergue in the village of Olveiroa. There are lots of people here today as it is the place to stop for those doing a short stage, as we are, and those who have been walking some 35kms to reach here today!
Tomorrow we will see the sea for the first time since we started this walk back on the 12th of May. We remember the thrill well from our last walk through here five years ago. We will reach the coast at the town of Cee. As we will be approaching from a mountain top we have a very steep descent along a difficult track to negotiate before we can reach the coast. I will keep my knee strap handy, just in case. This time instead of stopping in Cee as we did last time, we will be continuing a few more kilometres to Corcubion. This way our last stage to Finisterre will be that little bit shorter. From the town of Finisterre to the lighthouse at Cape Finisterre is another three kilometres, and the end of the road for us! The finish is in sight (almost!).
DÍA 56 - SANTA MARIÑA A OLVEIROA
La etapa de hoy era corta, de unos 14 kms hasta Olveiroa. Caminamos mayormente por asfalto pero al no hacermucho calor no tuvimos mayores problemas. Subimos por pista asfaltada la ladera del Monte Aro (la travesía original que atraviesa la montaña esta cerrada, en recuperación) y al bajar hay hermosas vistas a montañas y valles. Normalmente se ve también el embalse da Fervenza pero hoy la bruma cubrió el valle y fue imposible verlo. Cruzamos el puente sobre el río Xallas y unos kilómetros más adelante llegamos a nuestro destino, Olveiroa. El albergue privado con opción a habitaciones dobles y un restaurante al lado esta muy bien y tiene un hermoso hórreo al frente (granero de piedra típico de Galicia).
En Olveiroa se encuentran petroglifos de la edad de Bronce, dólmenes y túmulos. Lástima que están muy lejos para visitar a pié, otra vez será...
Finamente, gracias a todos por sus mensajes y palabras de aliento. Nos inspiran y animan a seguir adelante. Solo quedan dos días para llegar a Finisterra. Ultreia!!!
En Olveiroa se encuentran petroglifos de la edad de Bronce, dólmenes y túmulos. Lástima que están muy lejos para visitar a pié, otra vez será...
Finamente, gracias a todos por sus mensajes y palabras de aliento. Nos inspiran y animan a seguir adelante. Solo quedan dos días para llegar a Finisterra. Ultreia!!!
Sunday, 5 July 2015
DAY 55 - NEGREIRA TO SANTA MARIÑA - 22KMS
Today we set off at 06:30am, feeling refreshed after a restful night. We expect to have to wait three hours before we can have breakfast, but unexpectedly find a bar open almost immediately. It's funny how the most simple things can bring such joy!
From there the day just gets better and better! A nice cool breeze blows gently as the path winds mercilessly up and down the hillsides, but not as acute or punishing as on the previous day. We do not mind having to walk on the road for a bit. The countryside beckons, looking beautiful with paths through oak and eucalyptus woods. Open fields full of corn greet our every turn. Then we start to be overtaken by fellow walkers, all much younger, moving at an alarming speed heading for destinations way past the one we have chosen for today. As we have been feeling very tired lately, we decide to add one more stage to our journey to Finisterre, so that we now plan to reach our final destination on the 8th of July, instead of the 7th. This way we can take it easier today.
Along the way we meet three young American girls, two from Texas and one from Iowa, a Spaniard from Barcelona who has started his walk in Oviedo, an Englishman from Bideford, four Spanish ladies we have been meeting on and off for the last few days, a young Dutch girl who passes us very quickly, angry that she got lost and started walking in the opposite direction for three kilometres before she realised her mistake, and a number of walkers coming in the opposite direction heading back from Finisterre to Santiago. After twelve kilometres we come across the first bar since Negreira. It is full of walkers already, but we manage to find a corner to sit in.
Suitably refreshed we march on another ten kilometres and reach Santa Mariña, a small village which boasts two Albergues, a municipal one and a private one. We have booked ahead at the private one "Casa Pepa". Then follows our daily ritual: we check in, we shower, we wash our clothes, we have lunch, we sleep for an hour, we prepare our blog in English and Spanish, we pray for a good wifi signal, we post, we have a drink and a small snack and then prepare our rucksacks ready for the off tomorrow. Then sleep, hoping for good things tomorrow!
From there the day just gets better and better! A nice cool breeze blows gently as the path winds mercilessly up and down the hillsides, but not as acute or punishing as on the previous day. We do not mind having to walk on the road for a bit. The countryside beckons, looking beautiful with paths through oak and eucalyptus woods. Open fields full of corn greet our every turn. Then we start to be overtaken by fellow walkers, all much younger, moving at an alarming speed heading for destinations way past the one we have chosen for today. As we have been feeling very tired lately, we decide to add one more stage to our journey to Finisterre, so that we now plan to reach our final destination on the 8th of July, instead of the 7th. This way we can take it easier today.
Along the way we meet three young American girls, two from Texas and one from Iowa, a Spaniard from Barcelona who has started his walk in Oviedo, an Englishman from Bideford, four Spanish ladies we have been meeting on and off for the last few days, a young Dutch girl who passes us very quickly, angry that she got lost and started walking in the opposite direction for three kilometres before she realised her mistake, and a number of walkers coming in the opposite direction heading back from Finisterre to Santiago. After twelve kilometres we come across the first bar since Negreira. It is full of walkers already, but we manage to find a corner to sit in.
Suitably refreshed we march on another ten kilometres and reach Santa Mariña, a small village which boasts two Albergues, a municipal one and a private one. We have booked ahead at the private one "Casa Pepa". Then follows our daily ritual: we check in, we shower, we wash our clothes, we have lunch, we sleep for an hour, we prepare our blog in English and Spanish, we pray for a good wifi signal, we post, we have a drink and a small snack and then prepare our rucksacks ready for the off tomorrow. Then sleep, hoping for good things tomorrow!
DÍA 55 - NEGREIRA A SANTA MARIÑA
La etapa de hoy fue de 22 kms. Al salir de Negreira pasamos por un gran arco de piedra que comunica la capilla con el pazo de Cotón del siglo XVIII. Poco después se ve una estatua que recuerda a los gallegos que emigraron buscando trabajo en otros países o lugares más propicios.
La primera parte fue un sube y baja, mayormente por bosques de eucaliptos y robles bordeados por helechos. En algunas partes el sendero esta encauzado por muros de piedra, cubiertos de musgo y rodeados de vegetación diversa. Hermoso!
Luego caminamos bastante por carretera y caminos de tierra con grandes plantaciones de maíz a ambos lados. También se ven algunas cabañas de vacas. Al pasar por el puente de Maroñas tuvimos que apartarnos para dejar pasar a un grupo de vacas rumbo a un tambo que nos miraban con curiosidad...
Poco después llegamos a la aldea de Santa Mariña donde pasaremos la noche en un albergue privado, dormitorio arriba con 14 camas y literas y bar con comida en la planta baja. Los que se quedan en este lugar son los que, como nosotros, no quieren hacer la etapa larga de más de 35 kms.
Hoy vimos a muchos peregrinos de varias nacionalidades en el camino, franceses, alemanes, americanos, españoles, canadienses, holandeses, etc. Algunos volviendo a Santiago.
Mañana seguimos a Olveira.
La primera parte fue un sube y baja, mayormente por bosques de eucaliptos y robles bordeados por helechos. En algunas partes el sendero esta encauzado por muros de piedra, cubiertos de musgo y rodeados de vegetación diversa. Hermoso!
Luego caminamos bastante por carretera y caminos de tierra con grandes plantaciones de maíz a ambos lados. También se ven algunas cabañas de vacas. Al pasar por el puente de Maroñas tuvimos que apartarnos para dejar pasar a un grupo de vacas rumbo a un tambo que nos miraban con curiosidad...
Poco después llegamos a la aldea de Santa Mariña donde pasaremos la noche en un albergue privado, dormitorio arriba con 14 camas y literas y bar con comida en la planta baja. Los que se quedan en este lugar son los que, como nosotros, no quieren hacer la etapa larga de más de 35 kms.
Hoy vimos a muchos peregrinos de varias nacionalidades en el camino, franceses, alemanes, americanos, españoles, canadienses, holandeses, etc. Algunos volviendo a Santiago.
Mañana seguimos a Olveira.
Saturday, 4 July 2015
DAY 54 - SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA TO NEGREIRA - 23KMS
Another early morning start through the deserted streets of Santiago, down to the Obradoiro Square, past the Parador Nacional and down the hill, which eventually led to beautiful eucalyptus forests and leafy lanes reminiscent of Back home in Surrey.
What I hadn't bargained for were the endless climbs and descents From a height of 253m to160m, 220m,150m,200m, 150m, 175m and finally at Augapesada 58m. From there a very steep 2 km-long climb to Alto do Mar de Ovellas at 270m. I can tell you that I felt completely exhausted! I think our bodies are telling us enough is enough and that we need more rest. We have our flights booked for our return to the UK on the 11th so we don't have much leeway. We may have to take an extra day to complete the journey as we both feel very tired.
The highlight today was passing the Ponte Vella at Ponte Maceira. This is a XIV century bridge in a delightful setting. We remembered this well from our 2010 walk. A few kilometres later we arrived in Negreira, where tonight we are staying in a private Albergue with a room all to ourselves to see if we can get a bit of rest.
Let's see how we get on tomorrow!
What I hadn't bargained for were the endless climbs and descents From a height of 253m to160m, 220m,150m,200m, 150m, 175m and finally at Augapesada 58m. From there a very steep 2 km-long climb to Alto do Mar de Ovellas at 270m. I can tell you that I felt completely exhausted! I think our bodies are telling us enough is enough and that we need more rest. We have our flights booked for our return to the UK on the 11th so we don't have much leeway. We may have to take an extra day to complete the journey as we both feel very tired.
The highlight today was passing the Ponte Vella at Ponte Maceira. This is a XIV century bridge in a delightful setting. We remembered this well from our 2010 walk. A few kilometres later we arrived in Negreira, where tonight we are staying in a private Albergue with a room all to ourselves to see if we can get a bit of rest.
Let's see how we get on tomorrow!
DIA 54- SANTIAGO A NEGREIRA
Dejamos nuestro hotel a las 6.45 y nos dirigimos a la plaza de Obradoiro donde junto al parador nacional comienza el Camino a Finisterra.
Por calles, carreteras, caminos y senderos subimos y bajamos continuamente de 253 m de altura a 160, 220, 150, 200, 150, 175 para llegar a Augapesada a 58 m. Allí empieza una fuerte subida de 2 kms hasta el Alto do Mar de Ovellas a 270 m de altura. Menos mal que encontramos algunos bancos de piedra para sentarnos y recobrar el aliento y así poder llegar a la cima!
Gran parte de esta etapa es por bosques de robles y eucaliptos, éstos con su perfume característico. No hacía tanto calor pero sí mucha humedad.
Descendimos por asfalto hasta Ponte Maceira donde cruzamos el río Tambre por el magnífico puente medieval de Ponte Vella del siglo XIV, con una excelente vista panorámica.
Cinco kms más adelante llegamos a Negreira donde encontramos un buen albergue con opción de habitaciones individuales, toallas y sábanas de tela, no de papel... Todo un lujo!
Mañana estamos pensando hacer una etapa más corta; nos sentimos bastante cansados.
Friday, 3 July 2015
DÍAS 52 Y 53 - SILLEDA A OUTEIRO Y SANTIAGO
La etapa de Silleda a Outeiro fue larga y bastante ardua pero logramos hacerla en 6 horas. Fuimos los primeros en llegar al albergue de Outeiro. Tuvimos que esperar 1/2 hora a que abrieran (a las 13.00)!
Caminamos por carretera, caminos asfaltados y semi-asfaltados y también por amplios senderos de tierra. Pasamos por bosques de robles y también de eucaliptos donde se sentía el perfume de estos. Temperatura más agradable de unos 27C y al salir temprano no nos afectó el calor.
Subimos y bajamos tramos empinados, difíciles, especialmente la bajada al puente sobre el río Ulla y luego la fuerte subida hacia Outeiro.
El albergue de Outeiro es el más cercano a Santiago con una etapa final de 18 kms y por lo tanto popular con los peregrinos. Tiene 36 literas/camas en dos habitaciones y estaba completo al final del día. A unos cuantos de los que se quedaron ya los conocíamos de días anteriores y fue divertido reunirnos y charlar con ellos. Se sentía el entusiasmo de todos por llegar a Santiago!
La etapa de Outeiro a Santiago de Compostela la hicimos muy temprano. Varios salieron a las 4.30 y como ya estábamos despiertos decidimos levantarnos y seguirlos. Salimos a las 5.20 con nuestras luces puestas ya que estaba oscuro. Había una hermosa luna llena!
El camino tenía sus subidas y bajadas pero no tan severas como las de ayer. La frescura de la mañana nos ayudó a completar la etapa sin problemas. Cruzamos también un puente sobre las vías del tren, en el lugar del trágico accidente de julio de 2013. Un momento muy triste recordando y pensando en tantas vidas perdidas.
Al entrar en Santiago hay que subir una calle muy larga y luego caminar por calles estrechas hasta el centro de la ciudad. El llegar a la plaza de Obradoiro es un momento muy especial, de gran emoción y compartido por todos los que completan los distintos Caminos. Es difícil de explicar ese sentimiento...
Encontramos nuestro hotel, dejamos las mochilas y fuimos a buscar nuestra Compostela, el certificado oficial como constancia de haber completado este Camino. Este se entrega al comprobar las entradas en la credencial donde hay sellos de cada una de las etapas.
Mañana continuamos hacia Finisterra.
Caminamos por carretera, caminos asfaltados y semi-asfaltados y también por amplios senderos de tierra. Pasamos por bosques de robles y también de eucaliptos donde se sentía el perfume de estos. Temperatura más agradable de unos 27C y al salir temprano no nos afectó el calor.
Subimos y bajamos tramos empinados, difíciles, especialmente la bajada al puente sobre el río Ulla y luego la fuerte subida hacia Outeiro.
El albergue de Outeiro es el más cercano a Santiago con una etapa final de 18 kms y por lo tanto popular con los peregrinos. Tiene 36 literas/camas en dos habitaciones y estaba completo al final del día. A unos cuantos de los que se quedaron ya los conocíamos de días anteriores y fue divertido reunirnos y charlar con ellos. Se sentía el entusiasmo de todos por llegar a Santiago!
La etapa de Outeiro a Santiago de Compostela la hicimos muy temprano. Varios salieron a las 4.30 y como ya estábamos despiertos decidimos levantarnos y seguirlos. Salimos a las 5.20 con nuestras luces puestas ya que estaba oscuro. Había una hermosa luna llena!
El camino tenía sus subidas y bajadas pero no tan severas como las de ayer. La frescura de la mañana nos ayudó a completar la etapa sin problemas. Cruzamos también un puente sobre las vías del tren, en el lugar del trágico accidente de julio de 2013. Un momento muy triste recordando y pensando en tantas vidas perdidas.
Al entrar en Santiago hay que subir una calle muy larga y luego caminar por calles estrechas hasta el centro de la ciudad. El llegar a la plaza de Obradoiro es un momento muy especial, de gran emoción y compartido por todos los que completan los distintos Caminos. Es difícil de explicar ese sentimiento...
Encontramos nuestro hotel, dejamos las mochilas y fuimos a buscar nuestra Compostela, el certificado oficial como constancia de haber completado este Camino. Este se entrega al comprobar las entradas en la credencial donde hay sellos de cada una de las etapas.
Mañana continuamos hacia Finisterra.
DAY 52/53- SILLEDA TO OUTEIRO AND SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA - 45KMS
Today we left at 6:00am but lost about 20 minutes after taking a wrong turn and heading in the wrong direction in the dark! The rest of the day though was great. We were able to sleep well last night and we were feeling good today. As it turned out we did our fastest walk today. 26kms in 6 hours. Not bad at all for two old crinklies (well one and a half!).
Apart from the first few kilometres along roads, the rest of the way was through beautiful shaded forests and mountain paths. The downside (there is always a downside!) was that there were a number of very steep ups and downs which tend to wreak havoc with the knees. On one particularly steep descent we saw a long train bridge which straddles the valley. This was under construction five years ago when we did our walk from Gibraltar. It was good to see it finished. We understand the high speed AVE trains will use this bridge on their approach to Santiago de Compostela.
We arrived at the Albergue in Outeiro too early and had to wait for it to open at 1:00pm. It has been improved since last time by the addition of a restaurant service, whereas before there was absolutely nothing to eat anywhere near the place!
Our German friends did not arrive until much later. They had decided to send their very heavy rucksacks ahead by taxi and the Hospitalera in charge of the Albergue would not let them in! They have a very strict code on only allowing bone fide pilgrims in the Albergue. If you don't have a rucksack, then you are obviously not one! Eventually their packs arrived and they were able to join us. As this is the last Albergue before Santiago it was virtually full with around 30 people.
TODAY SATURDAY WE REACHED SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!
This is our third Camino but it is always a thrill when you walk up to the Cathedral, particularly after a long and very often painful journey. We decided to leave early this morning and at 05:20am we were on our way, totally in the dark, with a full moon shining down on us and our headlamps on. We wend our way through a long straight path through forests until first light. The path then continued through beautiful rolling hills an unending up and down motion which was exhausting! But we were spurred on by the fact that soon we would reach Santiago. No matter how many times you walk up to it, it is always something special. We saw very few pilgrims on the way, perhaps because it was so early but as soon as we spied the twin towers of the Cathedral, we also started seeing other walkers coming from the various Caminos that converge on Obradoiro square in Santiago. It was with a huge sense of achievement that we took the last few steps to the Cathedral!
After that we went to our hotel to freshen up and then headed for the pilgrim office to obtain our Compostela, the certificate that confirms we have done one of the Caminos de Santiago. At lunchtime we went to Casa Felisa where last time we were with our friends and fellow walkers, Phil and Miriam Watson and Bart and Linda Saudemont. We raised a glass to them, hoping that our paths will cross again in the not too- distant future!
Tomorrow we continue to Cape Finisterre, the fabled End of the World, where we will end our epic journey. We hope you will continue to join us on our journey.
On a final note we would like to send our congratulations and best wishes to Lt. Col. (Read) Mark Randall, former Commanding Officer, Royal Gibraltar Regiment, who tomorrow Saturday will be entering Gibraltar after a mammoth walk of over 2100 Kms from Cardiff Castle, in record time. Well done Mark! Fantastic achievement.
Apart from the first few kilometres along roads, the rest of the way was through beautiful shaded forests and mountain paths. The downside (there is always a downside!) was that there were a number of very steep ups and downs which tend to wreak havoc with the knees. On one particularly steep descent we saw a long train bridge which straddles the valley. This was under construction five years ago when we did our walk from Gibraltar. It was good to see it finished. We understand the high speed AVE trains will use this bridge on their approach to Santiago de Compostela.
We arrived at the Albergue in Outeiro too early and had to wait for it to open at 1:00pm. It has been improved since last time by the addition of a restaurant service, whereas before there was absolutely nothing to eat anywhere near the place!
Our German friends did not arrive until much later. They had decided to send their very heavy rucksacks ahead by taxi and the Hospitalera in charge of the Albergue would not let them in! They have a very strict code on only allowing bone fide pilgrims in the Albergue. If you don't have a rucksack, then you are obviously not one! Eventually their packs arrived and they were able to join us. As this is the last Albergue before Santiago it was virtually full with around 30 people.
TODAY SATURDAY WE REACHED SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!
This is our third Camino but it is always a thrill when you walk up to the Cathedral, particularly after a long and very often painful journey. We decided to leave early this morning and at 05:20am we were on our way, totally in the dark, with a full moon shining down on us and our headlamps on. We wend our way through a long straight path through forests until first light. The path then continued through beautiful rolling hills an unending up and down motion which was exhausting! But we were spurred on by the fact that soon we would reach Santiago. No matter how many times you walk up to it, it is always something special. We saw very few pilgrims on the way, perhaps because it was so early but as soon as we spied the twin towers of the Cathedral, we also started seeing other walkers coming from the various Caminos that converge on Obradoiro square in Santiago. It was with a huge sense of achievement that we took the last few steps to the Cathedral!
After that we went to our hotel to freshen up and then headed for the pilgrim office to obtain our Compostela, the certificate that confirms we have done one of the Caminos de Santiago. At lunchtime we went to Casa Felisa where last time we were with our friends and fellow walkers, Phil and Miriam Watson and Bart and Linda Saudemont. We raised a glass to them, hoping that our paths will cross again in the not too- distant future!
Tomorrow we continue to Cape Finisterre, the fabled End of the World, where we will end our epic journey. We hope you will continue to join us on our journey.
On a final note we would like to send our congratulations and best wishes to Lt. Col. (Read) Mark Randall, former Commanding Officer, Royal Gibraltar Regiment, who tomorrow Saturday will be entering Gibraltar after a mammoth walk of over 2100 Kms from Cardiff Castle, in record time. Well done Mark! Fantastic achievement.
Wednesday, 1 July 2015
DÍA 51 - LALIN A SILLEDA
Una etapa de 18 kms hasta Silleda. Carretera y asfalto por unos 6 kms y luego senderos por bosques, campos y arboledas. Muy bonito aunque bastante difícil en partes con subidas y bajadas empinadas con muchas piedras. Pasamos también por algunos pueblos y cruzamos un antiguo puente romano muy alto con hermosas vistas al río.
Nos encontramos y caminamos los últimos 7 kms con una pareja de estudiantes alemanes, Nora y Lászlo que están viajando por Europa antes de empezar sus respectivos Masters. Muy simpáticos y el caminar juntos fue muy agradable. Llevan mucho peso en las mochilas y Nora tiene problemas con los piés (muchas ampollas!). Ellos terminan en Santiago así que solo les quedan dos días para llegar. Nora y Lászlo continuaron su etapa hasta otro pueblo. Esperamos verlos nuevamente mañana o en Santiago.
Mañana nos espera una etapa bastante larga y difícil.
Nos encontramos y caminamos los últimos 7 kms con una pareja de estudiantes alemanes, Nora y Lászlo que están viajando por Europa antes de empezar sus respectivos Masters. Muy simpáticos y el caminar juntos fue muy agradable. Llevan mucho peso en las mochilas y Nora tiene problemas con los piés (muchas ampollas!). Ellos terminan en Santiago así que solo les quedan dos días para llegar. Nora y Lászlo continuaron su etapa hasta otro pueblo. Esperamos verlos nuevamente mañana o en Santiago.
Mañana nos espera una etapa bastante larga y difícil.
DAY 51 - LALIN TO SILLEDA - 18KMS
This morning it was decidedly cooler than yesterday and overcast, making for very clammy conditions. We set off later than usual at around 7:30am after our usual....well you know what!
The first few kilometres were up and down Tarmac paths, dodging main roads and motorways and walking through trading estates. Not very nice! After that the path went cross-country through very pleasant valleys, wooded areas and the inevitable villages. Today we met two very nice young Germans, Nora and Lászlo, who have taken time out before doing their Masters degrees, to travel around Europe. They were both carrying far too much weight and Nora was suffering from severe blisters. We travelled together for two or three hours until we reached Silleda. They had to carry on a few more Kms as someone had offered to take some of their luggage forward and they did not want to lose it! We have agreed to try and meet up tomorrow either on the Camino or in the Albergue in Outeiro, where we are heading tomorrow.
The first few kilometres were up and down Tarmac paths, dodging main roads and motorways and walking through trading estates. Not very nice! After that the path went cross-country through very pleasant valleys, wooded areas and the inevitable villages. Today we met two very nice young Germans, Nora and Lászlo, who have taken time out before doing their Masters degrees, to travel around Europe. They were both carrying far too much weight and Nora was suffering from severe blisters. We travelled together for two or three hours until we reached Silleda. They had to carry on a few more Kms as someone had offered to take some of their luggage forward and they did not want to lose it! We have agreed to try and meet up tomorrow either on the Camino or in the Albergue in Outeiro, where we are heading tomorrow.
DAY 50 - CEA TO LALIN - 17KMS
An early morning start to try and and avoid the heat expected to reach 40C degrees today! Last night from the terrace of our Albergue we could see thick smoke from a large fire that appeared to be a little bit too close for comfort!
After a brief visit to a local bakery where they were making the famous CEA bread, and a 6:00am breakfast of coffee and oily toast we set off for Lalin, our destination for the day. We walked mainly on some major and some minor roads passing through some interesting villages. One in particular, Piñor, caught my eye. It has more than twelve companies making coffins. Surely this must be the coffin capital of Spain! Very macabre!
After 17 Kms or so we reached Castro do Dozon. By this time the temperature had reached 38 degrees and we still had another 17 Kms or so to go! We took refuge in a local bar where a number of fellow walkers had gathered to cool down and decide what to do next. There we met Pepe, Antonia and Carlos who own the La Reja Restaurant in Jimena de la Frontera, not far from Gibraltar. After a lot of deliberation we decided it was potentially dangerous for us oldies to continue walking in the extreme heat. We therefor waited a few hours for a bus which took us to Lalin in about 12 minutes! Pepe and Co. Decided to go a bit further to Laxe.
When we arrived in Lalin, Francisco, a Spanish gentleman who had been on the bus with us, offered to show us to a local hotel. Francisco turned out to be a teacher at a local Institute teaching accounting and maths. He seemed to be a very nice man and we chatted all the way to the hotel. Along the way he pointed out a monument to Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, a famous Spanish airman, who in 1926 had been the first to fly from Madrid to the Philippines, only to due the following year in an aircraft accident.
After a brief visit to a local bakery where they were making the famous CEA bread, and a 6:00am breakfast of coffee and oily toast we set off for Lalin, our destination for the day. We walked mainly on some major and some minor roads passing through some interesting villages. One in particular, Piñor, caught my eye. It has more than twelve companies making coffins. Surely this must be the coffin capital of Spain! Very macabre!
After 17 Kms or so we reached Castro do Dozon. By this time the temperature had reached 38 degrees and we still had another 17 Kms or so to go! We took refuge in a local bar where a number of fellow walkers had gathered to cool down and decide what to do next. There we met Pepe, Antonia and Carlos who own the La Reja Restaurant in Jimena de la Frontera, not far from Gibraltar. After a lot of deliberation we decided it was potentially dangerous for us oldies to continue walking in the extreme heat. We therefor waited a few hours for a bus which took us to Lalin in about 12 minutes! Pepe and Co. Decided to go a bit further to Laxe.
When we arrived in Lalin, Francisco, a Spanish gentleman who had been on the bus with us, offered to show us to a local hotel. Francisco turned out to be a teacher at a local Institute teaching accounting and maths. He seemed to be a very nice man and we chatted all the way to the hotel. Along the way he pointed out a monument to Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, a famous Spanish airman, who in 1926 had been the first to fly from Madrid to the Philippines, only to due the following year in an aircraft accident.
DÍA 50 - CEA A LALIN
Anoche vimos un incendio forestal desde la terraza del albergue. Por el humo que se veía parece que era serio. Con la ola de calor que estamos pasando han habido varios incendios forestales.
Salimos temprano del albergue y a las 6am estábamos delante del bar Sol y Luna esperando que abrieran para tomar el desayuno. En camino al bar pasamos por el Horno de Pepita donde ya estaban preparando el pan.
Caminamos 17 kms hasta Castro de Dozón. Llegamos a las 11 y ya hacia mucho calor. Seguir otros 17-18 kms por carretera hasta Lanin con 38C al sol era demasiado así que decidimos tomar un autobús hasta allí. Mis piés lo agradecieron!
Viajó con nosotros unos españoles de Jimena de la Frontera. Pepe, Antonia y Carlos, el hijo. Ellos siguieron para tener una etapa corta hoy (problemas de piés). Francisco, un señor mayor de Castro bajó con nosotros e insistió en mostrarnos el camino hasta un hotel que conocía. Francisco es maestro de instituto y enseña contabilidad y matemáticas. Hace ese viaje todos los días porque prefiere la vida tranquila del pueblo.
Lanin es una ciudad moderna, de 10.000 habitantes, conocida por la fabricación de ropa de vestir. Visitamos la iglesia local y vimos el monumento en homenaje a Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, famoso piloto gallego que participó en el primer vuelo de Madrid a Filipinas en 1926 y falleció un año después en un accidente de aviación en Madrid.
Mañana seguimos a Silleda.
Salimos temprano del albergue y a las 6am estábamos delante del bar Sol y Luna esperando que abrieran para tomar el desayuno. En camino al bar pasamos por el Horno de Pepita donde ya estaban preparando el pan.
Caminamos 17 kms hasta Castro de Dozón. Llegamos a las 11 y ya hacia mucho calor. Seguir otros 17-18 kms por carretera hasta Lanin con 38C al sol era demasiado así que decidimos tomar un autobús hasta allí. Mis piés lo agradecieron!
Viajó con nosotros unos españoles de Jimena de la Frontera. Pepe, Antonia y Carlos, el hijo. Ellos siguieron para tener una etapa corta hoy (problemas de piés). Francisco, un señor mayor de Castro bajó con nosotros e insistió en mostrarnos el camino hasta un hotel que conocía. Francisco es maestro de instituto y enseña contabilidad y matemáticas. Hace ese viaje todos los días porque prefiere la vida tranquila del pueblo.
Lanin es una ciudad moderna, de 10.000 habitantes, conocida por la fabricación de ropa de vestir. Visitamos la iglesia local y vimos el monumento en homenaje a Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, famoso piloto gallego que participó en el primer vuelo de Madrid a Filipinas en 1926 y falleció un año después en un accidente de aviación en Madrid.
Mañana seguimos a Silleda.
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