Saturday, 4 July 2015
DIA 54- SANTIAGO A NEGREIRA
Dejamos nuestro hotel a las 6.45 y nos dirigimos a la plaza de Obradoiro donde junto al parador nacional comienza el Camino a Finisterra.
Por calles, carreteras, caminos y senderos subimos y bajamos continuamente de 253 m de altura a 160, 220, 150, 200, 150, 175 para llegar a Augapesada a 58 m. Allí empieza una fuerte subida de 2 kms hasta el Alto do Mar de Ovellas a 270 m de altura. Menos mal que encontramos algunos bancos de piedra para sentarnos y recobrar el aliento y así poder llegar a la cima!
Gran parte de esta etapa es por bosques de robles y eucaliptos, éstos con su perfume característico. No hacía tanto calor pero sí mucha humedad.
Descendimos por asfalto hasta Ponte Maceira donde cruzamos el río Tambre por el magnífico puente medieval de Ponte Vella del siglo XIV, con una excelente vista panorámica.
Cinco kms más adelante llegamos a Negreira donde encontramos un buen albergue con opción de habitaciones individuales, toallas y sábanas de tela, no de papel... Todo un lujo!
Mañana estamos pensando hacer una etapa más corta; nos sentimos bastante cansados.
Friday, 3 July 2015
DÍAS 52 Y 53 - SILLEDA A OUTEIRO Y SANTIAGO
La etapa de Silleda a Outeiro fue larga y bastante ardua pero logramos hacerla en 6 horas. Fuimos los primeros en llegar al albergue de Outeiro. Tuvimos que esperar 1/2 hora a que abrieran (a las 13.00)!
Caminamos por carretera, caminos asfaltados y semi-asfaltados y también por amplios senderos de tierra. Pasamos por bosques de robles y también de eucaliptos donde se sentía el perfume de estos. Temperatura más agradable de unos 27C y al salir temprano no nos afectó el calor.
Subimos y bajamos tramos empinados, difíciles, especialmente la bajada al puente sobre el río Ulla y luego la fuerte subida hacia Outeiro.
El albergue de Outeiro es el más cercano a Santiago con una etapa final de 18 kms y por lo tanto popular con los peregrinos. Tiene 36 literas/camas en dos habitaciones y estaba completo al final del día. A unos cuantos de los que se quedaron ya los conocíamos de días anteriores y fue divertido reunirnos y charlar con ellos. Se sentía el entusiasmo de todos por llegar a Santiago!
La etapa de Outeiro a Santiago de Compostela la hicimos muy temprano. Varios salieron a las 4.30 y como ya estábamos despiertos decidimos levantarnos y seguirlos. Salimos a las 5.20 con nuestras luces puestas ya que estaba oscuro. Había una hermosa luna llena!
El camino tenía sus subidas y bajadas pero no tan severas como las de ayer. La frescura de la mañana nos ayudó a completar la etapa sin problemas. Cruzamos también un puente sobre las vías del tren, en el lugar del trágico accidente de julio de 2013. Un momento muy triste recordando y pensando en tantas vidas perdidas.
Al entrar en Santiago hay que subir una calle muy larga y luego caminar por calles estrechas hasta el centro de la ciudad. El llegar a la plaza de Obradoiro es un momento muy especial, de gran emoción y compartido por todos los que completan los distintos Caminos. Es difícil de explicar ese sentimiento...
Encontramos nuestro hotel, dejamos las mochilas y fuimos a buscar nuestra Compostela, el certificado oficial como constancia de haber completado este Camino. Este se entrega al comprobar las entradas en la credencial donde hay sellos de cada una de las etapas.
Mañana continuamos hacia Finisterra.
Caminamos por carretera, caminos asfaltados y semi-asfaltados y también por amplios senderos de tierra. Pasamos por bosques de robles y también de eucaliptos donde se sentía el perfume de estos. Temperatura más agradable de unos 27C y al salir temprano no nos afectó el calor.
Subimos y bajamos tramos empinados, difíciles, especialmente la bajada al puente sobre el río Ulla y luego la fuerte subida hacia Outeiro.
El albergue de Outeiro es el más cercano a Santiago con una etapa final de 18 kms y por lo tanto popular con los peregrinos. Tiene 36 literas/camas en dos habitaciones y estaba completo al final del día. A unos cuantos de los que se quedaron ya los conocíamos de días anteriores y fue divertido reunirnos y charlar con ellos. Se sentía el entusiasmo de todos por llegar a Santiago!
La etapa de Outeiro a Santiago de Compostela la hicimos muy temprano. Varios salieron a las 4.30 y como ya estábamos despiertos decidimos levantarnos y seguirlos. Salimos a las 5.20 con nuestras luces puestas ya que estaba oscuro. Había una hermosa luna llena!
El camino tenía sus subidas y bajadas pero no tan severas como las de ayer. La frescura de la mañana nos ayudó a completar la etapa sin problemas. Cruzamos también un puente sobre las vías del tren, en el lugar del trágico accidente de julio de 2013. Un momento muy triste recordando y pensando en tantas vidas perdidas.
Al entrar en Santiago hay que subir una calle muy larga y luego caminar por calles estrechas hasta el centro de la ciudad. El llegar a la plaza de Obradoiro es un momento muy especial, de gran emoción y compartido por todos los que completan los distintos Caminos. Es difícil de explicar ese sentimiento...
Encontramos nuestro hotel, dejamos las mochilas y fuimos a buscar nuestra Compostela, el certificado oficial como constancia de haber completado este Camino. Este se entrega al comprobar las entradas en la credencial donde hay sellos de cada una de las etapas.
Mañana continuamos hacia Finisterra.
DAY 52/53- SILLEDA TO OUTEIRO AND SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA - 45KMS
Today we left at 6:00am but lost about 20 minutes after taking a wrong turn and heading in the wrong direction in the dark! The rest of the day though was great. We were able to sleep well last night and we were feeling good today. As it turned out we did our fastest walk today. 26kms in 6 hours. Not bad at all for two old crinklies (well one and a half!).
Apart from the first few kilometres along roads, the rest of the way was through beautiful shaded forests and mountain paths. The downside (there is always a downside!) was that there were a number of very steep ups and downs which tend to wreak havoc with the knees. On one particularly steep descent we saw a long train bridge which straddles the valley. This was under construction five years ago when we did our walk from Gibraltar. It was good to see it finished. We understand the high speed AVE trains will use this bridge on their approach to Santiago de Compostela.
We arrived at the Albergue in Outeiro too early and had to wait for it to open at 1:00pm. It has been improved since last time by the addition of a restaurant service, whereas before there was absolutely nothing to eat anywhere near the place!
Our German friends did not arrive until much later. They had decided to send their very heavy rucksacks ahead by taxi and the Hospitalera in charge of the Albergue would not let them in! They have a very strict code on only allowing bone fide pilgrims in the Albergue. If you don't have a rucksack, then you are obviously not one! Eventually their packs arrived and they were able to join us. As this is the last Albergue before Santiago it was virtually full with around 30 people.
TODAY SATURDAY WE REACHED SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!
This is our third Camino but it is always a thrill when you walk up to the Cathedral, particularly after a long and very often painful journey. We decided to leave early this morning and at 05:20am we were on our way, totally in the dark, with a full moon shining down on us and our headlamps on. We wend our way through a long straight path through forests until first light. The path then continued through beautiful rolling hills an unending up and down motion which was exhausting! But we were spurred on by the fact that soon we would reach Santiago. No matter how many times you walk up to it, it is always something special. We saw very few pilgrims on the way, perhaps because it was so early but as soon as we spied the twin towers of the Cathedral, we also started seeing other walkers coming from the various Caminos that converge on Obradoiro square in Santiago. It was with a huge sense of achievement that we took the last few steps to the Cathedral!
After that we went to our hotel to freshen up and then headed for the pilgrim office to obtain our Compostela, the certificate that confirms we have done one of the Caminos de Santiago. At lunchtime we went to Casa Felisa where last time we were with our friends and fellow walkers, Phil and Miriam Watson and Bart and Linda Saudemont. We raised a glass to them, hoping that our paths will cross again in the not too- distant future!
Tomorrow we continue to Cape Finisterre, the fabled End of the World, where we will end our epic journey. We hope you will continue to join us on our journey.
On a final note we would like to send our congratulations and best wishes to Lt. Col. (Read) Mark Randall, former Commanding Officer, Royal Gibraltar Regiment, who tomorrow Saturday will be entering Gibraltar after a mammoth walk of over 2100 Kms from Cardiff Castle, in record time. Well done Mark! Fantastic achievement.
Apart from the first few kilometres along roads, the rest of the way was through beautiful shaded forests and mountain paths. The downside (there is always a downside!) was that there were a number of very steep ups and downs which tend to wreak havoc with the knees. On one particularly steep descent we saw a long train bridge which straddles the valley. This was under construction five years ago when we did our walk from Gibraltar. It was good to see it finished. We understand the high speed AVE trains will use this bridge on their approach to Santiago de Compostela.
We arrived at the Albergue in Outeiro too early and had to wait for it to open at 1:00pm. It has been improved since last time by the addition of a restaurant service, whereas before there was absolutely nothing to eat anywhere near the place!
Our German friends did not arrive until much later. They had decided to send their very heavy rucksacks ahead by taxi and the Hospitalera in charge of the Albergue would not let them in! They have a very strict code on only allowing bone fide pilgrims in the Albergue. If you don't have a rucksack, then you are obviously not one! Eventually their packs arrived and they were able to join us. As this is the last Albergue before Santiago it was virtually full with around 30 people.
TODAY SATURDAY WE REACHED SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!
This is our third Camino but it is always a thrill when you walk up to the Cathedral, particularly after a long and very often painful journey. We decided to leave early this morning and at 05:20am we were on our way, totally in the dark, with a full moon shining down on us and our headlamps on. We wend our way through a long straight path through forests until first light. The path then continued through beautiful rolling hills an unending up and down motion which was exhausting! But we were spurred on by the fact that soon we would reach Santiago. No matter how many times you walk up to it, it is always something special. We saw very few pilgrims on the way, perhaps because it was so early but as soon as we spied the twin towers of the Cathedral, we also started seeing other walkers coming from the various Caminos that converge on Obradoiro square in Santiago. It was with a huge sense of achievement that we took the last few steps to the Cathedral!
After that we went to our hotel to freshen up and then headed for the pilgrim office to obtain our Compostela, the certificate that confirms we have done one of the Caminos de Santiago. At lunchtime we went to Casa Felisa where last time we were with our friends and fellow walkers, Phil and Miriam Watson and Bart and Linda Saudemont. We raised a glass to them, hoping that our paths will cross again in the not too- distant future!
Tomorrow we continue to Cape Finisterre, the fabled End of the World, where we will end our epic journey. We hope you will continue to join us on our journey.
On a final note we would like to send our congratulations and best wishes to Lt. Col. (Read) Mark Randall, former Commanding Officer, Royal Gibraltar Regiment, who tomorrow Saturday will be entering Gibraltar after a mammoth walk of over 2100 Kms from Cardiff Castle, in record time. Well done Mark! Fantastic achievement.
Wednesday, 1 July 2015
DÍA 51 - LALIN A SILLEDA
Una etapa de 18 kms hasta Silleda. Carretera y asfalto por unos 6 kms y luego senderos por bosques, campos y arboledas. Muy bonito aunque bastante difícil en partes con subidas y bajadas empinadas con muchas piedras. Pasamos también por algunos pueblos y cruzamos un antiguo puente romano muy alto con hermosas vistas al río.
Nos encontramos y caminamos los últimos 7 kms con una pareja de estudiantes alemanes, Nora y Lászlo que están viajando por Europa antes de empezar sus respectivos Masters. Muy simpáticos y el caminar juntos fue muy agradable. Llevan mucho peso en las mochilas y Nora tiene problemas con los piés (muchas ampollas!). Ellos terminan en Santiago así que solo les quedan dos días para llegar. Nora y Lászlo continuaron su etapa hasta otro pueblo. Esperamos verlos nuevamente mañana o en Santiago.
Mañana nos espera una etapa bastante larga y difícil.
Nos encontramos y caminamos los últimos 7 kms con una pareja de estudiantes alemanes, Nora y Lászlo que están viajando por Europa antes de empezar sus respectivos Masters. Muy simpáticos y el caminar juntos fue muy agradable. Llevan mucho peso en las mochilas y Nora tiene problemas con los piés (muchas ampollas!). Ellos terminan en Santiago así que solo les quedan dos días para llegar. Nora y Lászlo continuaron su etapa hasta otro pueblo. Esperamos verlos nuevamente mañana o en Santiago.
Mañana nos espera una etapa bastante larga y difícil.
DAY 51 - LALIN TO SILLEDA - 18KMS
This morning it was decidedly cooler than yesterday and overcast, making for very clammy conditions. We set off later than usual at around 7:30am after our usual....well you know what!
The first few kilometres were up and down Tarmac paths, dodging main roads and motorways and walking through trading estates. Not very nice! After that the path went cross-country through very pleasant valleys, wooded areas and the inevitable villages. Today we met two very nice young Germans, Nora and Lászlo, who have taken time out before doing their Masters degrees, to travel around Europe. They were both carrying far too much weight and Nora was suffering from severe blisters. We travelled together for two or three hours until we reached Silleda. They had to carry on a few more Kms as someone had offered to take some of their luggage forward and they did not want to lose it! We have agreed to try and meet up tomorrow either on the Camino or in the Albergue in Outeiro, where we are heading tomorrow.
The first few kilometres were up and down Tarmac paths, dodging main roads and motorways and walking through trading estates. Not very nice! After that the path went cross-country through very pleasant valleys, wooded areas and the inevitable villages. Today we met two very nice young Germans, Nora and Lászlo, who have taken time out before doing their Masters degrees, to travel around Europe. They were both carrying far too much weight and Nora was suffering from severe blisters. We travelled together for two or three hours until we reached Silleda. They had to carry on a few more Kms as someone had offered to take some of their luggage forward and they did not want to lose it! We have agreed to try and meet up tomorrow either on the Camino or in the Albergue in Outeiro, where we are heading tomorrow.
DAY 50 - CEA TO LALIN - 17KMS
An early morning start to try and and avoid the heat expected to reach 40C degrees today! Last night from the terrace of our Albergue we could see thick smoke from a large fire that appeared to be a little bit too close for comfort!
After a brief visit to a local bakery where they were making the famous CEA bread, and a 6:00am breakfast of coffee and oily toast we set off for Lalin, our destination for the day. We walked mainly on some major and some minor roads passing through some interesting villages. One in particular, Piñor, caught my eye. It has more than twelve companies making coffins. Surely this must be the coffin capital of Spain! Very macabre!
After 17 Kms or so we reached Castro do Dozon. By this time the temperature had reached 38 degrees and we still had another 17 Kms or so to go! We took refuge in a local bar where a number of fellow walkers had gathered to cool down and decide what to do next. There we met Pepe, Antonia and Carlos who own the La Reja Restaurant in Jimena de la Frontera, not far from Gibraltar. After a lot of deliberation we decided it was potentially dangerous for us oldies to continue walking in the extreme heat. We therefor waited a few hours for a bus which took us to Lalin in about 12 minutes! Pepe and Co. Decided to go a bit further to Laxe.
When we arrived in Lalin, Francisco, a Spanish gentleman who had been on the bus with us, offered to show us to a local hotel. Francisco turned out to be a teacher at a local Institute teaching accounting and maths. He seemed to be a very nice man and we chatted all the way to the hotel. Along the way he pointed out a monument to Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, a famous Spanish airman, who in 1926 had been the first to fly from Madrid to the Philippines, only to due the following year in an aircraft accident.
After a brief visit to a local bakery where they were making the famous CEA bread, and a 6:00am breakfast of coffee and oily toast we set off for Lalin, our destination for the day. We walked mainly on some major and some minor roads passing through some interesting villages. One in particular, Piñor, caught my eye. It has more than twelve companies making coffins. Surely this must be the coffin capital of Spain! Very macabre!
After 17 Kms or so we reached Castro do Dozon. By this time the temperature had reached 38 degrees and we still had another 17 Kms or so to go! We took refuge in a local bar where a number of fellow walkers had gathered to cool down and decide what to do next. There we met Pepe, Antonia and Carlos who own the La Reja Restaurant in Jimena de la Frontera, not far from Gibraltar. After a lot of deliberation we decided it was potentially dangerous for us oldies to continue walking in the extreme heat. We therefor waited a few hours for a bus which took us to Lalin in about 12 minutes! Pepe and Co. Decided to go a bit further to Laxe.
When we arrived in Lalin, Francisco, a Spanish gentleman who had been on the bus with us, offered to show us to a local hotel. Francisco turned out to be a teacher at a local Institute teaching accounting and maths. He seemed to be a very nice man and we chatted all the way to the hotel. Along the way he pointed out a monument to Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, a famous Spanish airman, who in 1926 had been the first to fly from Madrid to the Philippines, only to due the following year in an aircraft accident.
DÍA 50 - CEA A LALIN
Anoche vimos un incendio forestal desde la terraza del albergue. Por el humo que se veía parece que era serio. Con la ola de calor que estamos pasando han habido varios incendios forestales.
Salimos temprano del albergue y a las 6am estábamos delante del bar Sol y Luna esperando que abrieran para tomar el desayuno. En camino al bar pasamos por el Horno de Pepita donde ya estaban preparando el pan.
Caminamos 17 kms hasta Castro de Dozón. Llegamos a las 11 y ya hacia mucho calor. Seguir otros 17-18 kms por carretera hasta Lanin con 38C al sol era demasiado así que decidimos tomar un autobús hasta allí. Mis piés lo agradecieron!
Viajó con nosotros unos españoles de Jimena de la Frontera. Pepe, Antonia y Carlos, el hijo. Ellos siguieron para tener una etapa corta hoy (problemas de piés). Francisco, un señor mayor de Castro bajó con nosotros e insistió en mostrarnos el camino hasta un hotel que conocía. Francisco es maestro de instituto y enseña contabilidad y matemáticas. Hace ese viaje todos los días porque prefiere la vida tranquila del pueblo.
Lanin es una ciudad moderna, de 10.000 habitantes, conocida por la fabricación de ropa de vestir. Visitamos la iglesia local y vimos el monumento en homenaje a Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, famoso piloto gallego que participó en el primer vuelo de Madrid a Filipinas en 1926 y falleció un año después en un accidente de aviación en Madrid.
Mañana seguimos a Silleda.
Salimos temprano del albergue y a las 6am estábamos delante del bar Sol y Luna esperando que abrieran para tomar el desayuno. En camino al bar pasamos por el Horno de Pepita donde ya estaban preparando el pan.
Caminamos 17 kms hasta Castro de Dozón. Llegamos a las 11 y ya hacia mucho calor. Seguir otros 17-18 kms por carretera hasta Lanin con 38C al sol era demasiado así que decidimos tomar un autobús hasta allí. Mis piés lo agradecieron!
Viajó con nosotros unos españoles de Jimena de la Frontera. Pepe, Antonia y Carlos, el hijo. Ellos siguieron para tener una etapa corta hoy (problemas de piés). Francisco, un señor mayor de Castro bajó con nosotros e insistió en mostrarnos el camino hasta un hotel que conocía. Francisco es maestro de instituto y enseña contabilidad y matemáticas. Hace ese viaje todos los días porque prefiere la vida tranquila del pueblo.
Lanin es una ciudad moderna, de 10.000 habitantes, conocida por la fabricación de ropa de vestir. Visitamos la iglesia local y vimos el monumento en homenaje a Joaquín Lóriga Taboada, famoso piloto gallego que participó en el primer vuelo de Madrid a Filipinas en 1926 y falleció un año después en un accidente de aviación en Madrid.
Mañana seguimos a Silleda.
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