La etapa de hoy era corta, de unos 14 kms hasta Olveiroa. Caminamos mayormente por asfalto pero al no hacermucho calor no tuvimos mayores problemas. Subimos por pista asfaltada la ladera del Monte Aro (la travesía original que atraviesa la montaña esta cerrada, en recuperación) y al bajar hay hermosas vistas a montañas y valles. Normalmente se ve también el embalse da Fervenza pero hoy la bruma cubrió el valle y fue imposible verlo. Cruzamos el puente sobre el río Xallas y unos kilómetros más adelante llegamos a nuestro destino, Olveiroa. El albergue privado con opción a habitaciones dobles y un restaurante al lado esta muy bien y tiene un hermoso hórreo al frente (granero de piedra típico de Galicia).
En Olveiroa se encuentran petroglifos de la edad de Bronce, dólmenes y túmulos. Lástima que están muy lejos para visitar a pié, otra vez será...
Finamente, gracias a todos por sus mensajes y palabras de aliento. Nos inspiran y animan a seguir adelante. Solo quedan dos días para llegar a Finisterra. Ultreia!!!
Monday, 6 July 2015
Sunday, 5 July 2015
DAY 55 - NEGREIRA TO SANTA MARIÑA - 22KMS
Today we set off at 06:30am, feeling refreshed after a restful night. We expect to have to wait three hours before we can have breakfast, but unexpectedly find a bar open almost immediately. It's funny how the most simple things can bring such joy!
From there the day just gets better and better! A nice cool breeze blows gently as the path winds mercilessly up and down the hillsides, but not as acute or punishing as on the previous day. We do not mind having to walk on the road for a bit. The countryside beckons, looking beautiful with paths through oak and eucalyptus woods. Open fields full of corn greet our every turn. Then we start to be overtaken by fellow walkers, all much younger, moving at an alarming speed heading for destinations way past the one we have chosen for today. As we have been feeling very tired lately, we decide to add one more stage to our journey to Finisterre, so that we now plan to reach our final destination on the 8th of July, instead of the 7th. This way we can take it easier today.
Along the way we meet three young American girls, two from Texas and one from Iowa, a Spaniard from Barcelona who has started his walk in Oviedo, an Englishman from Bideford, four Spanish ladies we have been meeting on and off for the last few days, a young Dutch girl who passes us very quickly, angry that she got lost and started walking in the opposite direction for three kilometres before she realised her mistake, and a number of walkers coming in the opposite direction heading back from Finisterre to Santiago. After twelve kilometres we come across the first bar since Negreira. It is full of walkers already, but we manage to find a corner to sit in.
Suitably refreshed we march on another ten kilometres and reach Santa Mariña, a small village which boasts two Albergues, a municipal one and a private one. We have booked ahead at the private one "Casa Pepa". Then follows our daily ritual: we check in, we shower, we wash our clothes, we have lunch, we sleep for an hour, we prepare our blog in English and Spanish, we pray for a good wifi signal, we post, we have a drink and a small snack and then prepare our rucksacks ready for the off tomorrow. Then sleep, hoping for good things tomorrow!
From there the day just gets better and better! A nice cool breeze blows gently as the path winds mercilessly up and down the hillsides, but not as acute or punishing as on the previous day. We do not mind having to walk on the road for a bit. The countryside beckons, looking beautiful with paths through oak and eucalyptus woods. Open fields full of corn greet our every turn. Then we start to be overtaken by fellow walkers, all much younger, moving at an alarming speed heading for destinations way past the one we have chosen for today. As we have been feeling very tired lately, we decide to add one more stage to our journey to Finisterre, so that we now plan to reach our final destination on the 8th of July, instead of the 7th. This way we can take it easier today.
Along the way we meet three young American girls, two from Texas and one from Iowa, a Spaniard from Barcelona who has started his walk in Oviedo, an Englishman from Bideford, four Spanish ladies we have been meeting on and off for the last few days, a young Dutch girl who passes us very quickly, angry that she got lost and started walking in the opposite direction for three kilometres before she realised her mistake, and a number of walkers coming in the opposite direction heading back from Finisterre to Santiago. After twelve kilometres we come across the first bar since Negreira. It is full of walkers already, but we manage to find a corner to sit in.
Suitably refreshed we march on another ten kilometres and reach Santa Mariña, a small village which boasts two Albergues, a municipal one and a private one. We have booked ahead at the private one "Casa Pepa". Then follows our daily ritual: we check in, we shower, we wash our clothes, we have lunch, we sleep for an hour, we prepare our blog in English and Spanish, we pray for a good wifi signal, we post, we have a drink and a small snack and then prepare our rucksacks ready for the off tomorrow. Then sleep, hoping for good things tomorrow!
DÍA 55 - NEGREIRA A SANTA MARIÑA
La etapa de hoy fue de 22 kms. Al salir de Negreira pasamos por un gran arco de piedra que comunica la capilla con el pazo de Cotón del siglo XVIII. Poco después se ve una estatua que recuerda a los gallegos que emigraron buscando trabajo en otros países o lugares más propicios.
La primera parte fue un sube y baja, mayormente por bosques de eucaliptos y robles bordeados por helechos. En algunas partes el sendero esta encauzado por muros de piedra, cubiertos de musgo y rodeados de vegetación diversa. Hermoso!
Luego caminamos bastante por carretera y caminos de tierra con grandes plantaciones de maíz a ambos lados. También se ven algunas cabañas de vacas. Al pasar por el puente de Maroñas tuvimos que apartarnos para dejar pasar a un grupo de vacas rumbo a un tambo que nos miraban con curiosidad...
Poco después llegamos a la aldea de Santa Mariña donde pasaremos la noche en un albergue privado, dormitorio arriba con 14 camas y literas y bar con comida en la planta baja. Los que se quedan en este lugar son los que, como nosotros, no quieren hacer la etapa larga de más de 35 kms.
Hoy vimos a muchos peregrinos de varias nacionalidades en el camino, franceses, alemanes, americanos, españoles, canadienses, holandeses, etc. Algunos volviendo a Santiago.
Mañana seguimos a Olveira.
La primera parte fue un sube y baja, mayormente por bosques de eucaliptos y robles bordeados por helechos. En algunas partes el sendero esta encauzado por muros de piedra, cubiertos de musgo y rodeados de vegetación diversa. Hermoso!
Luego caminamos bastante por carretera y caminos de tierra con grandes plantaciones de maíz a ambos lados. También se ven algunas cabañas de vacas. Al pasar por el puente de Maroñas tuvimos que apartarnos para dejar pasar a un grupo de vacas rumbo a un tambo que nos miraban con curiosidad...
Poco después llegamos a la aldea de Santa Mariña donde pasaremos la noche en un albergue privado, dormitorio arriba con 14 camas y literas y bar con comida en la planta baja. Los que se quedan en este lugar son los que, como nosotros, no quieren hacer la etapa larga de más de 35 kms.
Hoy vimos a muchos peregrinos de varias nacionalidades en el camino, franceses, alemanes, americanos, españoles, canadienses, holandeses, etc. Algunos volviendo a Santiago.
Mañana seguimos a Olveira.
Saturday, 4 July 2015
DAY 54 - SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA TO NEGREIRA - 23KMS
Another early morning start through the deserted streets of Santiago, down to the Obradoiro Square, past the Parador Nacional and down the hill, which eventually led to beautiful eucalyptus forests and leafy lanes reminiscent of Back home in Surrey.
What I hadn't bargained for were the endless climbs and descents From a height of 253m to160m, 220m,150m,200m, 150m, 175m and finally at Augapesada 58m. From there a very steep 2 km-long climb to Alto do Mar de Ovellas at 270m. I can tell you that I felt completely exhausted! I think our bodies are telling us enough is enough and that we need more rest. We have our flights booked for our return to the UK on the 11th so we don't have much leeway. We may have to take an extra day to complete the journey as we both feel very tired.
The highlight today was passing the Ponte Vella at Ponte Maceira. This is a XIV century bridge in a delightful setting. We remembered this well from our 2010 walk. A few kilometres later we arrived in Negreira, where tonight we are staying in a private Albergue with a room all to ourselves to see if we can get a bit of rest.
Let's see how we get on tomorrow!
What I hadn't bargained for were the endless climbs and descents From a height of 253m to160m, 220m,150m,200m, 150m, 175m and finally at Augapesada 58m. From there a very steep 2 km-long climb to Alto do Mar de Ovellas at 270m. I can tell you that I felt completely exhausted! I think our bodies are telling us enough is enough and that we need more rest. We have our flights booked for our return to the UK on the 11th so we don't have much leeway. We may have to take an extra day to complete the journey as we both feel very tired.
The highlight today was passing the Ponte Vella at Ponte Maceira. This is a XIV century bridge in a delightful setting. We remembered this well from our 2010 walk. A few kilometres later we arrived in Negreira, where tonight we are staying in a private Albergue with a room all to ourselves to see if we can get a bit of rest.
Let's see how we get on tomorrow!
DIA 54- SANTIAGO A NEGREIRA
Dejamos nuestro hotel a las 6.45 y nos dirigimos a la plaza de Obradoiro donde junto al parador nacional comienza el Camino a Finisterra.
Por calles, carreteras, caminos y senderos subimos y bajamos continuamente de 253 m de altura a 160, 220, 150, 200, 150, 175 para llegar a Augapesada a 58 m. Allí empieza una fuerte subida de 2 kms hasta el Alto do Mar de Ovellas a 270 m de altura. Menos mal que encontramos algunos bancos de piedra para sentarnos y recobrar el aliento y así poder llegar a la cima!
Gran parte de esta etapa es por bosques de robles y eucaliptos, éstos con su perfume característico. No hacía tanto calor pero sí mucha humedad.
Descendimos por asfalto hasta Ponte Maceira donde cruzamos el río Tambre por el magnífico puente medieval de Ponte Vella del siglo XIV, con una excelente vista panorámica.
Cinco kms más adelante llegamos a Negreira donde encontramos un buen albergue con opción de habitaciones individuales, toallas y sábanas de tela, no de papel... Todo un lujo!
Mañana estamos pensando hacer una etapa más corta; nos sentimos bastante cansados.
Friday, 3 July 2015
DÍAS 52 Y 53 - SILLEDA A OUTEIRO Y SANTIAGO
La etapa de Silleda a Outeiro fue larga y bastante ardua pero logramos hacerla en 6 horas. Fuimos los primeros en llegar al albergue de Outeiro. Tuvimos que esperar 1/2 hora a que abrieran (a las 13.00)!
Caminamos por carretera, caminos asfaltados y semi-asfaltados y también por amplios senderos de tierra. Pasamos por bosques de robles y también de eucaliptos donde se sentía el perfume de estos. Temperatura más agradable de unos 27C y al salir temprano no nos afectó el calor.
Subimos y bajamos tramos empinados, difíciles, especialmente la bajada al puente sobre el río Ulla y luego la fuerte subida hacia Outeiro.
El albergue de Outeiro es el más cercano a Santiago con una etapa final de 18 kms y por lo tanto popular con los peregrinos. Tiene 36 literas/camas en dos habitaciones y estaba completo al final del día. A unos cuantos de los que se quedaron ya los conocíamos de días anteriores y fue divertido reunirnos y charlar con ellos. Se sentía el entusiasmo de todos por llegar a Santiago!
La etapa de Outeiro a Santiago de Compostela la hicimos muy temprano. Varios salieron a las 4.30 y como ya estábamos despiertos decidimos levantarnos y seguirlos. Salimos a las 5.20 con nuestras luces puestas ya que estaba oscuro. Había una hermosa luna llena!
El camino tenía sus subidas y bajadas pero no tan severas como las de ayer. La frescura de la mañana nos ayudó a completar la etapa sin problemas. Cruzamos también un puente sobre las vías del tren, en el lugar del trágico accidente de julio de 2013. Un momento muy triste recordando y pensando en tantas vidas perdidas.
Al entrar en Santiago hay que subir una calle muy larga y luego caminar por calles estrechas hasta el centro de la ciudad. El llegar a la plaza de Obradoiro es un momento muy especial, de gran emoción y compartido por todos los que completan los distintos Caminos. Es difícil de explicar ese sentimiento...
Encontramos nuestro hotel, dejamos las mochilas y fuimos a buscar nuestra Compostela, el certificado oficial como constancia de haber completado este Camino. Este se entrega al comprobar las entradas en la credencial donde hay sellos de cada una de las etapas.
Mañana continuamos hacia Finisterra.
Caminamos por carretera, caminos asfaltados y semi-asfaltados y también por amplios senderos de tierra. Pasamos por bosques de robles y también de eucaliptos donde se sentía el perfume de estos. Temperatura más agradable de unos 27C y al salir temprano no nos afectó el calor.
Subimos y bajamos tramos empinados, difíciles, especialmente la bajada al puente sobre el río Ulla y luego la fuerte subida hacia Outeiro.
El albergue de Outeiro es el más cercano a Santiago con una etapa final de 18 kms y por lo tanto popular con los peregrinos. Tiene 36 literas/camas en dos habitaciones y estaba completo al final del día. A unos cuantos de los que se quedaron ya los conocíamos de días anteriores y fue divertido reunirnos y charlar con ellos. Se sentía el entusiasmo de todos por llegar a Santiago!
La etapa de Outeiro a Santiago de Compostela la hicimos muy temprano. Varios salieron a las 4.30 y como ya estábamos despiertos decidimos levantarnos y seguirlos. Salimos a las 5.20 con nuestras luces puestas ya que estaba oscuro. Había una hermosa luna llena!
El camino tenía sus subidas y bajadas pero no tan severas como las de ayer. La frescura de la mañana nos ayudó a completar la etapa sin problemas. Cruzamos también un puente sobre las vías del tren, en el lugar del trágico accidente de julio de 2013. Un momento muy triste recordando y pensando en tantas vidas perdidas.
Al entrar en Santiago hay que subir una calle muy larga y luego caminar por calles estrechas hasta el centro de la ciudad. El llegar a la plaza de Obradoiro es un momento muy especial, de gran emoción y compartido por todos los que completan los distintos Caminos. Es difícil de explicar ese sentimiento...
Encontramos nuestro hotel, dejamos las mochilas y fuimos a buscar nuestra Compostela, el certificado oficial como constancia de haber completado este Camino. Este se entrega al comprobar las entradas en la credencial donde hay sellos de cada una de las etapas.
Mañana continuamos hacia Finisterra.
DAY 52/53- SILLEDA TO OUTEIRO AND SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA - 45KMS
Today we left at 6:00am but lost about 20 minutes after taking a wrong turn and heading in the wrong direction in the dark! The rest of the day though was great. We were able to sleep well last night and we were feeling good today. As it turned out we did our fastest walk today. 26kms in 6 hours. Not bad at all for two old crinklies (well one and a half!).
Apart from the first few kilometres along roads, the rest of the way was through beautiful shaded forests and mountain paths. The downside (there is always a downside!) was that there were a number of very steep ups and downs which tend to wreak havoc with the knees. On one particularly steep descent we saw a long train bridge which straddles the valley. This was under construction five years ago when we did our walk from Gibraltar. It was good to see it finished. We understand the high speed AVE trains will use this bridge on their approach to Santiago de Compostela.
We arrived at the Albergue in Outeiro too early and had to wait for it to open at 1:00pm. It has been improved since last time by the addition of a restaurant service, whereas before there was absolutely nothing to eat anywhere near the place!
Our German friends did not arrive until much later. They had decided to send their very heavy rucksacks ahead by taxi and the Hospitalera in charge of the Albergue would not let them in! They have a very strict code on only allowing bone fide pilgrims in the Albergue. If you don't have a rucksack, then you are obviously not one! Eventually their packs arrived and they were able to join us. As this is the last Albergue before Santiago it was virtually full with around 30 people.
TODAY SATURDAY WE REACHED SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!
This is our third Camino but it is always a thrill when you walk up to the Cathedral, particularly after a long and very often painful journey. We decided to leave early this morning and at 05:20am we were on our way, totally in the dark, with a full moon shining down on us and our headlamps on. We wend our way through a long straight path through forests until first light. The path then continued through beautiful rolling hills an unending up and down motion which was exhausting! But we were spurred on by the fact that soon we would reach Santiago. No matter how many times you walk up to it, it is always something special. We saw very few pilgrims on the way, perhaps because it was so early but as soon as we spied the twin towers of the Cathedral, we also started seeing other walkers coming from the various Caminos that converge on Obradoiro square in Santiago. It was with a huge sense of achievement that we took the last few steps to the Cathedral!
After that we went to our hotel to freshen up and then headed for the pilgrim office to obtain our Compostela, the certificate that confirms we have done one of the Caminos de Santiago. At lunchtime we went to Casa Felisa where last time we were with our friends and fellow walkers, Phil and Miriam Watson and Bart and Linda Saudemont. We raised a glass to them, hoping that our paths will cross again in the not too- distant future!
Tomorrow we continue to Cape Finisterre, the fabled End of the World, where we will end our epic journey. We hope you will continue to join us on our journey.
On a final note we would like to send our congratulations and best wishes to Lt. Col. (Read) Mark Randall, former Commanding Officer, Royal Gibraltar Regiment, who tomorrow Saturday will be entering Gibraltar after a mammoth walk of over 2100 Kms from Cardiff Castle, in record time. Well done Mark! Fantastic achievement.
Apart from the first few kilometres along roads, the rest of the way was through beautiful shaded forests and mountain paths. The downside (there is always a downside!) was that there were a number of very steep ups and downs which tend to wreak havoc with the knees. On one particularly steep descent we saw a long train bridge which straddles the valley. This was under construction five years ago when we did our walk from Gibraltar. It was good to see it finished. We understand the high speed AVE trains will use this bridge on their approach to Santiago de Compostela.
We arrived at the Albergue in Outeiro too early and had to wait for it to open at 1:00pm. It has been improved since last time by the addition of a restaurant service, whereas before there was absolutely nothing to eat anywhere near the place!
Our German friends did not arrive until much later. They had decided to send their very heavy rucksacks ahead by taxi and the Hospitalera in charge of the Albergue would not let them in! They have a very strict code on only allowing bone fide pilgrims in the Albergue. If you don't have a rucksack, then you are obviously not one! Eventually their packs arrived and they were able to join us. As this is the last Albergue before Santiago it was virtually full with around 30 people.
TODAY SATURDAY WE REACHED SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!
This is our third Camino but it is always a thrill when you walk up to the Cathedral, particularly after a long and very often painful journey. We decided to leave early this morning and at 05:20am we were on our way, totally in the dark, with a full moon shining down on us and our headlamps on. We wend our way through a long straight path through forests until first light. The path then continued through beautiful rolling hills an unending up and down motion which was exhausting! But we were spurred on by the fact that soon we would reach Santiago. No matter how many times you walk up to it, it is always something special. We saw very few pilgrims on the way, perhaps because it was so early but as soon as we spied the twin towers of the Cathedral, we also started seeing other walkers coming from the various Caminos that converge on Obradoiro square in Santiago. It was with a huge sense of achievement that we took the last few steps to the Cathedral!
After that we went to our hotel to freshen up and then headed for the pilgrim office to obtain our Compostela, the certificate that confirms we have done one of the Caminos de Santiago. At lunchtime we went to Casa Felisa where last time we were with our friends and fellow walkers, Phil and Miriam Watson and Bart and Linda Saudemont. We raised a glass to them, hoping that our paths will cross again in the not too- distant future!
Tomorrow we continue to Cape Finisterre, the fabled End of the World, where we will end our epic journey. We hope you will continue to join us on our journey.
On a final note we would like to send our congratulations and best wishes to Lt. Col. (Read) Mark Randall, former Commanding Officer, Royal Gibraltar Regiment, who tomorrow Saturday will be entering Gibraltar after a mammoth walk of over 2100 Kms from Cardiff Castle, in record time. Well done Mark! Fantastic achievement.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)