Hoy una etapa más corta, de 18 kms. Salimos temprano para evitar el intenso calor. Por carretera y senderos por bosques y arboledas con alguna sombra que hicieron la etapa más llevadera. Unos peregrinos que llegaron después que nosotros contaron que vieron un incendio en la ladera de la montaña y helicópteros tratando de apagar el fuego. Me alegro de no haberlo visto.
Hoy charlamos con Elisa, una señora de 84 años que estaba dando de comer a sus gallinas. Nos animó a seguir con las famosas palabras 'ánimo, ya queda poco'.
El albergue ha deteriorado mucho desde la última vez pero no hay otro alojamiento en el pueblo. Hay 24 peregrinos en el albergue. Hace muchísimo calor y esta tarde nos refugiamos en el único bar con aire acondicionado y Wifi aunque esta casi a la salida de Cea!
Este pueblo es famoso por su pan moreno y sus hornos de pan. Probamos el pan a la hora del almuerzo y la verdad es que está sabroso!
Espero que podamos descansar esta noche; hace mucho calor y hay muchos en el albergue!
Monday, 29 June 2015
DAY 49 - OURENSE TO CEA - 18KMS
A short day today on roads and some country paths, trying to avoid the midday sun. The temperature today was supposed to reach 40C! We had stocked up extra water just in case. Some walkers who arrived a couple of hours after us reported a fire on the side of a mountain, with four helicopters dropping water. Glad we missed that.
This afternoon in the Albergue, which already houses 24 "pilgrims", the heat is unbearable. Don't know if we will get any sleep tonight! Tomorrow the temperature is forecast to rise again. Ouch!
This afternoon in the Albergue, which already houses 24 "pilgrims", the heat is unbearable. Don't know if we will get any sleep tonight! Tomorrow the temperature is forecast to rise again. Ouch!
Sunday, 28 June 2015
DAY 47/48- XUNQUEIRA DE AMBIA TO ORENSE - 27 KMS
Another early morning start to avoid the midday heat! The way today was mainly on roads except for the odd up and down goat tracks trying to shortcut bends! Initially we got very lost leaving Xunqueira and must have walked an extra couple of kilometres at least! Once we found our way we went through a myriad of little villages, most now looking much more prosperous than those in previous days. Closer to Ourense we went through the inevitable industrial parks, churning out their pollution in marked contrast to the beautiful scenes up on the mountain sides!
Tonight we stay in a beautiful Albergue, where we stayed five years ago, a converted former monastery. The temperature has been rising all day and now at 9:30pm is 25C degrees. Impossible to sleep. Tomorrow the high will be 32 and on Monday 36. Tomorrow 28th June, marks my 70th birthday and we have decided to take a rest day here in Ourense. We will be transferring from the Albergue into one of the top hotels here and we are looking forward to having air conditioning the most! Today I got an advance birthday present from Ana Maria. She did my washing for me! She knows that of all the things we do on the Camino, washing clothes as soon as we arrive anywhere is the one thing I really hate doing! Sometimes the simple pleasures in life are the best!
DAY 48 - REST DAY IN OURENSE AND MY 70th BIRTHDAY!
Our rest day in Ourense has been just that. A lot of rest a very very good lunch, the odd glass of wine and air-conditioned comfort. Tomorrow we are back in business and some 25 Kms await us! We hope to reach Santiago de Compostela in four days time and from there another four to Cape Finisterre.
As you can see from this late post, we have had problems posting our daily blogs. I hope to catch up with all those who have sent me greetings on my birthday but in the meantime many thanks to everyone for thinking of me today and thus making this a special day.
Tonight we stay in a beautiful Albergue, where we stayed five years ago, a converted former monastery. The temperature has been rising all day and now at 9:30pm is 25C degrees. Impossible to sleep. Tomorrow the high will be 32 and on Monday 36. Tomorrow 28th June, marks my 70th birthday and we have decided to take a rest day here in Ourense. We will be transferring from the Albergue into one of the top hotels here and we are looking forward to having air conditioning the most! Today I got an advance birthday present from Ana Maria. She did my washing for me! She knows that of all the things we do on the Camino, washing clothes as soon as we arrive anywhere is the one thing I really hate doing! Sometimes the simple pleasures in life are the best!
DAY 48 - REST DAY IN OURENSE AND MY 70th BIRTHDAY!
Our rest day in Ourense has been just that. A lot of rest a very very good lunch, the odd glass of wine and air-conditioned comfort. Tomorrow we are back in business and some 25 Kms await us! We hope to reach Santiago de Compostela in four days time and from there another four to Cape Finisterre.
As you can see from this late post, we have had problems posting our daily blogs. I hope to catch up with all those who have sent me greetings on my birthday but in the meantime many thanks to everyone for thinking of me today and thus making this a special day.
DAY 46 - LAZA TO XUNQUEIRA DE AMBÍA - 35KMS
Today Friday, we decided to go for it! Alarm clock at 5:15am and on the road at 6:00am! Beautiful calm chilly morning. Headlamps on because it was still dark and we had to negotiate roads! Once again we climbed and climbed and climbed from 485m to almost 1000m, to the village of Alberguería, where we arrived three hours later and had our first coffee of the day. There is nothing very remarkable about this village save that there is a bar where pilgrims note on a "Vieira", a clam shell, their name and the date they passed through. There are hundreds if not thousand of these shells lining all the walls and ceilings. We had been there before in June 2010 so we searched for ours. It took us 20 minutes to find! By sheer coincidence we found another shell signed by Gibraltarians Freddie and Christine Vasquez, also dated June 2010. I've included a photo of their shell so if anyone has them as friends on Facebook I would be grateful if you can share this post with them. We have left another shell marking our current walk from Alicante to Finisterre and Muxia.
Suitably refreshed, we left Alberguería first on a minor road and then on a path cross-country with the usual up and down stoney paths, goat tracks and practically every hideous form of torture they could conceive! We arrived in Vilar dos Barrios a couple of hours later. Here we had to decide whether to stay the night or carry on another three and a half hours. We opted for the latter and arrived in Xunqueira de Ambiance, completely exhausted but delighted to have accomplished a 22 mile trek!
Better news for tomorrow is that we have a shorter day (only 23 Kms) to Ourense, where we will stay at the local Albergue and then transfer to a 5 star hotel on Sunday to celebrate my 70th birthday and a well deserved rest. Something is going on in Ourense over the weekend and there were no suitable hotel rooms available for Saturday night.
Suitably refreshed, we left Alberguería first on a minor road and then on a path cross-country with the usual up and down stoney paths, goat tracks and practically every hideous form of torture they could conceive! We arrived in Vilar dos Barrios a couple of hours later. Here we had to decide whether to stay the night or carry on another three and a half hours. We opted for the latter and arrived in Xunqueira de Ambiance, completely exhausted but delighted to have accomplished a 22 mile trek!
Better news for tomorrow is that we have a shorter day (only 23 Kms) to Ourense, where we will stay at the local Albergue and then transfer to a 5 star hotel on Sunday to celebrate my 70th birthday and a well deserved rest. Something is going on in Ourense over the weekend and there were no suitable hotel rooms available for Saturday night.
Thursday, 25 June 2015
DAY 45 - CAMPOBECERROS TO LAZA - 15KMS
After a very restful night in the Albergue where we were completely on our own, we carried on towards Laza, our destination for the day. Up and down the mountains we went in what has now become a familiar pattern! Up to 995m and then down to 485m. Again stunning scenery although today marred by flies which seemed to be everywhere. On the road we met an elderly gentleman on his way to the fields who among other things mentioned that he had never experienced so many flies in his lifetime!
We went through various small villages, mostly abandoned although we spotted the odd new building here and there. Maybe people are building/buying weekend mountain retreats? Our last stop before Laza was As Eiras, a very small village. Here we were surprised to find a rest point for pilgrims doing the Camino. There was an array of cold soft drinks, biscuits, tea, coffee and biscuits. All free but just asking for a donation towards costs. All of this from a very small group of friendly villagers! It restores your faith in humankind!
From this point on we walked on a narrow mountain road going downhill all the time, which is better than going uphill but hard on the knees! Six kilometres later we reached Laza and a very nice Albergue that we remembered from last time. So far there are eight of us with I expect more arriving later.
Tomorrow we have another choice to make 21 Kms or 31kms. Normally we would take the latter option but tomorrow we will play it by ear as our feet are not in the best condition.
We went through various small villages, mostly abandoned although we spotted the odd new building here and there. Maybe people are building/buying weekend mountain retreats? Our last stop before Laza was As Eiras, a very small village. Here we were surprised to find a rest point for pilgrims doing the Camino. There was an array of cold soft drinks, biscuits, tea, coffee and biscuits. All free but just asking for a donation towards costs. All of this from a very small group of friendly villagers! It restores your faith in humankind!
From this point on we walked on a narrow mountain road going downhill all the time, which is better than going uphill but hard on the knees! Six kilometres later we reached Laza and a very nice Albergue that we remembered from last time. So far there are eight of us with I expect more arriving later.
Tomorrow we have another choice to make 21 Kms or 31kms. Normally we would take the latter option but tomorrow we will play it by ear as our feet are not in the best condition.
DÍA 45 - CAMPOBECERROS A LAZA
Dejamos el pueblo después de un desayuno pobre de café con leche y una magdalena... Hoy DÍA 45 - CAMPOBECERROS A LAZA casi todo el tiempo por carretera de montaña, un sube y baja, y poco por senderos. El paisaje era fantástico desde lo alto. Los trabajos de construcción del AVE lo estropean un poco en ciertos lugares. Ayer no se notaba tanto ya que habrá un túnel de casi 11 kms! Lástima que este servicio de tren veloz no parará en ninguno de los pequeños pueblos por lo que estos no se beneficiarán. Es más, el pequeño tren que unía a estos pueblos con Orense ha dejado de funcionar lo que sí les causa problemas.
Hoy nuevamente hubo muchas moscas en el Camino; un campesino mayor nos comentó que nunca había experimentado algo igual en su vida. Es difícil de trabajar en el campo en esas condiciones.
No había ningún bar durante toda la etapa pero tuvimos una grata sorpresa cuando llegamos a As Eiras, un pequeño pueblo a 8 kms de Laza. Encontramos un pequeño rincón al lado del camino, un 'Punto de Apoyo' para los peregrinos donde nos pudimos sentar a descansar y donde había un termo con café y agua caliente para te, agua y algunas latas de bebida frías y algunos bizcochos y magdalenas para servirse. Tan sólo había una pequeña nota pidiendo un donativo. Una idea excelente!
Contentos y con más energía continuamos la marcha y bajando gradualmente los últimos 6 kms llegamos a Laza y al albergue que ya conocíamos de la vez anterior. Muy bueno, con todas las comodidades y dormitorios separados con 8 literas cada uno. Sólo 4 en el nuestro. Cada uno con sus llaves.
Mañana veremos hasta donde llegamos...
Hoy nuevamente hubo muchas moscas en el Camino; un campesino mayor nos comentó que nunca había experimentado algo igual en su vida. Es difícil de trabajar en el campo en esas condiciones.
No había ningún bar durante toda la etapa pero tuvimos una grata sorpresa cuando llegamos a As Eiras, un pequeño pueblo a 8 kms de Laza. Encontramos un pequeño rincón al lado del camino, un 'Punto de Apoyo' para los peregrinos donde nos pudimos sentar a descansar y donde había un termo con café y agua caliente para te, agua y algunas latas de bebida frías y algunos bizcochos y magdalenas para servirse. Tan sólo había una pequeña nota pidiendo un donativo. Una idea excelente!
Contentos y con más energía continuamos la marcha y bajando gradualmente los últimos 6 kms llegamos a Laza y al albergue que ya conocíamos de la vez anterior. Muy bueno, con todas las comodidades y dormitorios separados con 8 literas cada uno. Sólo 4 en el nuestro. Cada uno con sus llaves.
Mañana veremos hasta donde llegamos...
DIA 44 - AGUDIÑA A CAMPOBECERROS
Retomamos el Camino a unos 300m y salimos de Agudiña con mucha niebla por una carretera secundaria. Hay un desvío indicado por la constructora del AVE debido al tráfico de camiones que supone 7-8 kms extra para los peregrinos. Los Amigos del Camino de Agudiña mencionan que se puede seguir el Camino con precaución y eso es lo que decidimos hacer.
Fue un ascenso continuo y el tráfico constante de camiones de construcción y la espesa niebla lo hicieron bastante complicado, especialmente al no haber casi arcén! Aún cuando se disipó la niebla el paso de los camiones a ambos lados de la carretera nos acompañó por más de dos horas!
Lo más hermoso fue caminar por la cima de una cadena de montañas, viendo el embalse y lagos de As Portas a la derecha y los verdes valles a la izquierda. Una tranquilidad increíble y unas vistas inmejorables!
Pasamos por unas pequeñas aldeas, todas semi-abandonadas. En una de ellas, Venda do Teresa, hablamos con José Luis, uno de los 4 habitantes que quedan allí. Tuvo un accidente de trabajo hace unos años, recibió una buena compensación y su jubilación y volvió al pueblo donde nació. Primero se dedicó a ganado (300 vacas), luego a ovejas (100) y cabras (100) y ahora sólo tiene 50 vacas rubias típicas de Galicia cuya carne es muy apreciada. Ha comprado ya varias de las casas que quedaron vacías como una inversión para sus 2 hijos que viven en Madrid.
Seguimos subiendo y bajando, caminando la mayor parte del tiempo a un promedio de 1000m de altura hasta llegar a una fuerte pendiente de piedras sueltas, pizarra, que nos llevó a la entrada de Campobecerros, a 895m de altura.
Nos quedamos aquí, en un albergue bastante nuevo, con 18 literas y una buena terraza. Estamos solos! Será una noche muy tranquila...
Mañana a Laza!
Fue un ascenso continuo y el tráfico constante de camiones de construcción y la espesa niebla lo hicieron bastante complicado, especialmente al no haber casi arcén! Aún cuando se disipó la niebla el paso de los camiones a ambos lados de la carretera nos acompañó por más de dos horas!
Lo más hermoso fue caminar por la cima de una cadena de montañas, viendo el embalse y lagos de As Portas a la derecha y los verdes valles a la izquierda. Una tranquilidad increíble y unas vistas inmejorables!
Pasamos por unas pequeñas aldeas, todas semi-abandonadas. En una de ellas, Venda do Teresa, hablamos con José Luis, uno de los 4 habitantes que quedan allí. Tuvo un accidente de trabajo hace unos años, recibió una buena compensación y su jubilación y volvió al pueblo donde nació. Primero se dedicó a ganado (300 vacas), luego a ovejas (100) y cabras (100) y ahora sólo tiene 50 vacas rubias típicas de Galicia cuya carne es muy apreciada. Ha comprado ya varias de las casas que quedaron vacías como una inversión para sus 2 hijos que viven en Madrid.
Seguimos subiendo y bajando, caminando la mayor parte del tiempo a un promedio de 1000m de altura hasta llegar a una fuerte pendiente de piedras sueltas, pizarra, que nos llevó a la entrada de Campobecerros, a 895m de altura.
Nos quedamos aquí, en un albergue bastante nuevo, con 18 literas y una buena terraza. Estamos solos! Será una noche muy tranquila...
Mañana a Laza!
DAY 44 - A GUDIÑA TO CAMPOBECERROS - 21KMS
A 7:30am start today after a good breakfast of our usual "café con leche y tostadas con aceite". As I said in my last post, we were looking forward to today's trek over mountain peaks, passing through a number of small villages, most of them practically abandoned. It was indeed very much as I remembered from five years ago, even the heavy fog that made the first few kilometres somewhat dangerous on a minor road full of heavy construction traffic! What I had forgotten was how hard it was going up and down steep ascents and descents!
It was nonetheless very enjoyable. The scenery is absolutely stunning and one cannot help but feel that the Earth is something very special when you see such unspoilt natural beauty all around you. Absolute peace as well. Truly worth experiencing. Most of the trek is done at an altitude of around 1000 metres. As we went through one of the very small villages that dot the crest of these mountains, A Venda do Teresa, we came across a middle aged man walking along with his dogs. This turned out to be Jose Luis who was born and has lived there all his life! We asked him about a little old lady we had met there five years ago, who had told us a bit about life in those parts. He informed us that had been his mother who sadly had passed away since. Jose Luis was fifty six and had retired early due to a work related injury. Between his pension and the compensation he receives from his injury he gets 1500 Euros a month! He seems to be buying up most of the houses in the village as soon as anyone dies as an investment for his two children, both policemen who live in Madrid. There are now only four people living in the village. Jose Luis used to have 300 cattle, sold those and bought 100 sheep and 100 goats, sold those and now has a herd of 50 Golden Galician Cows. He also keeps chickens and pigs and his wife, who had kidney cancer a couple of years ago, but has now recovered, has a well-kept vegetable plot. Fresh water comes from a well. They are pretty well self-sufficient, and only go to the nearest big town occasionally to buy Oil, Flour, Salt and Sugar. Wow, what a life they lead!
Six hours later we came back to reality as we approached the village of Campobecerros, a small village nestled in a valley between hills. It's natural beauty now completely spoilt by a tunnel that is being built literally 100 metres from its houses, to take the AVE high speed train, which naturally will not stop there. The old railway line which carried a slower train that did stop there has now been abandoned. Such is the price we pay for progress. Today has given us much to think about what is really important in life.
I have to mention that the approach to Campobecerros is very well know on this Camino as something of a challenge! It is a very steep, very long, downhill path made of a very crumbly type of slate which is difficult to negotiate and must be hell when wet. Thankfully today was a sunny day with a very cool breeze blowing along the mountain tops all day. My foot, which was very painful yesterday, held up very well, until about 30 metres down the path, I twisted my ankle. It doesn't feel too bad and should last the course tomorrow which is a short 15 kilometres.
It was nonetheless very enjoyable. The scenery is absolutely stunning and one cannot help but feel that the Earth is something very special when you see such unspoilt natural beauty all around you. Absolute peace as well. Truly worth experiencing. Most of the trek is done at an altitude of around 1000 metres. As we went through one of the very small villages that dot the crest of these mountains, A Venda do Teresa, we came across a middle aged man walking along with his dogs. This turned out to be Jose Luis who was born and has lived there all his life! We asked him about a little old lady we had met there five years ago, who had told us a bit about life in those parts. He informed us that had been his mother who sadly had passed away since. Jose Luis was fifty six and had retired early due to a work related injury. Between his pension and the compensation he receives from his injury he gets 1500 Euros a month! He seems to be buying up most of the houses in the village as soon as anyone dies as an investment for his two children, both policemen who live in Madrid. There are now only four people living in the village. Jose Luis used to have 300 cattle, sold those and bought 100 sheep and 100 goats, sold those and now has a herd of 50 Golden Galician Cows. He also keeps chickens and pigs and his wife, who had kidney cancer a couple of years ago, but has now recovered, has a well-kept vegetable plot. Fresh water comes from a well. They are pretty well self-sufficient, and only go to the nearest big town occasionally to buy Oil, Flour, Salt and Sugar. Wow, what a life they lead!
Six hours later we came back to reality as we approached the village of Campobecerros, a small village nestled in a valley between hills. It's natural beauty now completely spoilt by a tunnel that is being built literally 100 metres from its houses, to take the AVE high speed train, which naturally will not stop there. The old railway line which carried a slower train that did stop there has now been abandoned. Such is the price we pay for progress. Today has given us much to think about what is really important in life.
I have to mention that the approach to Campobecerros is very well know on this Camino as something of a challenge! It is a very steep, very long, downhill path made of a very crumbly type of slate which is difficult to negotiate and must be hell when wet. Thankfully today was a sunny day with a very cool breeze blowing along the mountain tops all day. My foot, which was very painful yesterday, held up very well, until about 30 metres down the path, I twisted my ankle. It doesn't feel too bad and should last the course tomorrow which is a short 15 kilometres.
Tuesday, 23 June 2015
DÍA 43 - LUBIAN A AGUDIÑA
Hoy pronosticaban lluvia y fuertes tormentas así que subimos al alto de A Canda (1.281m) por carretera y cruzamos el largo túnel para entrar en Galicia. Por suerte solo hubo una pequeña llovizna y no tuvimos que usar los ponchos.
Luego retomamos el Camino y por senderos anchos y estrechos subimos y bajamos por bosques, cruzando pequeños arroyos y sitios anegados por largas pasarelas de piedra. Pasamos un par de cancelas y caminamos un rato al lado del río Abredo.
Luego las flechas amarillas nos llevaron hacia la cumbre de una montaña por senderos estrechos y pedregosos y siempre en ascenso con vistas espectaculares a los valles y otras montañas.
Finalmente comenzamos el descenso y después de atravesar dos pequeños pueblos seguimos por la carretera nacional, siempre en descenso para llegar a Agudiña donde pasaremos la noche. Llegamos a las 3pm, muy cansados, y tuvimos que apresurarnos e ir directamente a almorzar ya que aquí cierran la cocina a las 15.30! Ducha, lavado de ropa y finalmente descanso y corta siesta tardía. Escribimos el informe de hoy y lo subiremos al blog y Facebook. La señal de Wifi es pobre así que posiblemente tendremos que subir las fotos mañana.
Luego retomamos el Camino y por senderos anchos y estrechos subimos y bajamos por bosques, cruzando pequeños arroyos y sitios anegados por largas pasarelas de piedra. Pasamos un par de cancelas y caminamos un rato al lado del río Abredo.
Luego las flechas amarillas nos llevaron hacia la cumbre de una montaña por senderos estrechos y pedregosos y siempre en ascenso con vistas espectaculares a los valles y otras montañas.
Finalmente comenzamos el descenso y después de atravesar dos pequeños pueblos seguimos por la carretera nacional, siempre en descenso para llegar a Agudiña donde pasaremos la noche. Llegamos a las 3pm, muy cansados, y tuvimos que apresurarnos e ir directamente a almorzar ya que aquí cierran la cocina a las 15.30! Ducha, lavado de ropa y finalmente descanso y corta siesta tardía. Escribimos el informe de hoy y lo subiremos al blog y Facebook. La señal de Wifi es pobre así que posiblemente tendremos que subir las fotos mañana.
DAY 43 - LUBIAN TO A GUDIÑA - 27KMS
The weather forecast predicted heavy rain this morning, with thunderstorms and possible hailstorms. In the end all we got, thankfully, was a light shower. We did not need any of our rain gear which had been stowed high in our rucksacks. Tomorrow all that can go back towards the bottom of the rucksacks as the weather forecast is for lots of sun!
The first few kilometres we climbed and climbed on the road heading for the mountain pass of A Canda, 1281 metres high, which we reached two hours later. All the time we waited for the onset of the heavy rains, which thankfully never materialised. Lots of building activity by the side of the road, concerning the proposed fast train "AVE" which will link Medina del Campo, Lubian and Ourense.
As the weather seemed to be stabilising we decided to continue our walk cross-country. An extremely tiring trek up and down the hills and valleys, through beautiful countryside with the most stunning views. Eventually we arrived in A Gudiña, completely exhausted! Today it's been my turn to have foot problems, with my old hockey injury flaring up, causing acute pain.
Tomorrow is a very long stage so we have decided to stop roughly half way, in Campobecerros. We are looking forward to the trek tomorrow where you walk along the crest of the mountains passing through a number of villages (mostly abandoned) at a height of around 1000 metres. I remember this stretch as one of the most enjoyable of our 2010 trek.
The first few kilometres we climbed and climbed on the road heading for the mountain pass of A Canda, 1281 metres high, which we reached two hours later. All the time we waited for the onset of the heavy rains, which thankfully never materialised. Lots of building activity by the side of the road, concerning the proposed fast train "AVE" which will link Medina del Campo, Lubian and Ourense.
As the weather seemed to be stabilising we decided to continue our walk cross-country. An extremely tiring trek up and down the hills and valleys, through beautiful countryside with the most stunning views. Eventually we arrived in A Gudiña, completely exhausted! Today it's been my turn to have foot problems, with my old hockey injury flaring up, causing acute pain.
Tomorrow is a very long stage so we have decided to stop roughly half way, in Campobecerros. We are looking forward to the trek tomorrow where you walk along the crest of the mountains passing through a number of villages (mostly abandoned) at a height of around 1000 metres. I remember this stretch as one of the most enjoyable of our 2010 trek.
Monday, 22 June 2015
DÍA 42 - PUEBLA DE SANABRIA A LUBIAN
Caminamos mayormente por carretera, la N525, en parte debido a los desvíos por obras del AVE/carreteras y en parte para evitar un corto sendero por un bosque invadido por moscas, algunas de las cuales llegaban hasta la carretera. En camino nos encontraremos con Joe, un joven inglés que caminaba hacia Puebla, haciendo su propio Camino! También apareció José, el peregrino español de Asturianos.
Subimos hasta el puerto de Pardonelo de 1345m, uno más que Ben Nevis! Tuvimos que pasar un túnel sin casi arcén y justo antes de entrar pasó un coche tirando humo negro por el escape. Estaba tan mal que tuvimos que esperar unos 20 minutos para que se aclarara la humareda negra!
Al llegar a Aciberos retomamos el sendero y pasamos por el pueblo acompañados por Guillermo, un ex guardia civil que al retirarse a los 56 años (?!) volvió a vivir al pueblo donde nació. Nos mostró como encontrar la continuación del sendero a Lubián. Este sendero está en muy mal estado y había estado cerrado por un tiempo debido a obras de carretera. Conseguimos pasar por lugares llenos de piedras y yuyos, subiendo y bajando todo el tiempo en un zigzag interminable e infestado por moscas! También cruzamos un par de pequeños puentes y después de otra subida bastante brava entramos en Lubián, final de etapa! Hacia calor y humedad pero no llovió hasta más tarde, cuando llegó una fuerte tormenta. Nosotros a salvo en un pequeño hostal!
Mañana tendremos que subir a otro puerto de montaña, A Canda, un poco más bajo, de 1281m...
Subimos hasta el puerto de Pardonelo de 1345m, uno más que Ben Nevis! Tuvimos que pasar un túnel sin casi arcén y justo antes de entrar pasó un coche tirando humo negro por el escape. Estaba tan mal que tuvimos que esperar unos 20 minutos para que se aclarara la humareda negra!
Al llegar a Aciberos retomamos el sendero y pasamos por el pueblo acompañados por Guillermo, un ex guardia civil que al retirarse a los 56 años (?!) volvió a vivir al pueblo donde nació. Nos mostró como encontrar la continuación del sendero a Lubián. Este sendero está en muy mal estado y había estado cerrado por un tiempo debido a obras de carretera. Conseguimos pasar por lugares llenos de piedras y yuyos, subiendo y bajando todo el tiempo en un zigzag interminable e infestado por moscas! También cruzamos un par de pequeños puentes y después de otra subida bastante brava entramos en Lubián, final de etapa! Hacia calor y humedad pero no llovió hasta más tarde, cuando llegó una fuerte tormenta. Nosotros a salvo en un pequeño hostal!
Mañana tendremos que subir a otro puerto de montaña, A Canda, un poco más bajo, de 1281m...
DAY 42 - PUEBLA DE SANABRIA TO LUBIAN - 31KM
A long trek today which took us over eight hours (including some rest stops!). Today we had to walk mainly on roads, which was a little bit boring, save for the last six kilometres which was up and down steep mountain tracks. It was also an extremely tiring day as we were climbing the whole day up to the mountain pass of Padornelo, at 1345 metres one metre higher than Ben Nevis! At one point we had to cross a tunnel, but had to wait about 15 minutes for the tunnel to clear of fumes being emitted from a car churning black smoke from the exhaust. We were glad to see later on that the car had been pulled over by the Guardia Civil!
It was also the first time we saw a larger number of pilgrims, around ten, whereas previously we have been three or four. Near the mountain pass we met a young English lad Joe, from Devon coming the other way! We stopped for a chat with him and a Spanish man, Jose who we have met over the last couple of days. We wish Joe well on his own journey.
Today we were again plagued with flies, throughout the whole day, but particularly during the last few kilometres. Rain is predicted for tonight and tomorrow, which hopefully will get rid of the flies. Naturally we will get wet tomorrow, but that will be preferable to having to fight off flies every step of the way!
As you can appreciate from the map we have come a long way and we are slowly but surely getting nearer our final destination, Finisterre. We now hope to reach Ourense, on the 27th in time for my 70th Birthday on the 28th. We aim to reach Santiago de Compostela on the 3rd of July and Finisterre on the 7th. As with all things on the Camino this may change depending on what further adventures we have on the way!
Many thanks to all of you who are following our journey. I hope you enjoy our posts and the photos. I am delighted to say that we have people following us online from Gibraltar, UK, Spain, Holland, France, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, USA, Malaysia, Argentina and as from tomorrow, Mexico. We value your comments so please keep them coming. After a long day it is comforting to know there are people out there who are interested in what we are doing and who hopefully are enjoying the experience as much as we are!
Tomorrow we have roughly 25 Kms to cover. Unfortunately we have to climb to another mountain pass, this time to A Canda, which at only 1281m high should be an absolute doddle!
It was also the first time we saw a larger number of pilgrims, around ten, whereas previously we have been three or four. Near the mountain pass we met a young English lad Joe, from Devon coming the other way! We stopped for a chat with him and a Spanish man, Jose who we have met over the last couple of days. We wish Joe well on his own journey.
Today we were again plagued with flies, throughout the whole day, but particularly during the last few kilometres. Rain is predicted for tonight and tomorrow, which hopefully will get rid of the flies. Naturally we will get wet tomorrow, but that will be preferable to having to fight off flies every step of the way!
As you can appreciate from the map we have come a long way and we are slowly but surely getting nearer our final destination, Finisterre. We now hope to reach Ourense, on the 27th in time for my 70th Birthday on the 28th. We aim to reach Santiago de Compostela on the 3rd of July and Finisterre on the 7th. As with all things on the Camino this may change depending on what further adventures we have on the way!
Many thanks to all of you who are following our journey. I hope you enjoy our posts and the photos. I am delighted to say that we have people following us online from Gibraltar, UK, Spain, Holland, France, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, USA, Malaysia, Argentina and as from tomorrow, Mexico. We value your comments so please keep them coming. After a long day it is comforting to know there are people out there who are interested in what we are doing and who hopefully are enjoying the experience as much as we are!
Tomorrow we have roughly 25 Kms to cover. Unfortunately we have to climb to another mountain pass, this time to A Canda, which at only 1281m high should be an absolute doddle!
Sunday, 21 June 2015
DIA 41 - ASTURIANOS A PUEBLA DE SANABRIA
Salimos del albergue y después de unos 400 m retomamos el camino. Primero por carretera y luego por senderos, subiendo y bajando mayormente por bosques de robles, cruzando un par de charcos y un pequeño arroyo. Muy tranquilo y bonito hasta pasar un par de aldeas. Luego por más bosques pero con tantísimas moscas que nos irritaban y no nos dejaban en paz!
Tanto es así que al llegar al ultimo pueblo decidimos ir los últimos 6 kms por carretera!
Puebla de Sanabria es un hermoso pueblo con su casco antiguo a lo alto de la colina. Las casas son todas de piedra y tiene varias iglesias y un castillo. Desde la cima hay vistas magnificas al río Tera y líneas de montañas a lo lejos.
Mañana seguiremos a Requejo y Lubian si todo sale bien y no hay problemas con el camino: desvíos, obras, construcción de la línea del AVE (tren de alta velocidad), etc, etc.
Tanto es así que al llegar al ultimo pueblo decidimos ir los últimos 6 kms por carretera!
Puebla de Sanabria es un hermoso pueblo con su casco antiguo a lo alto de la colina. Las casas son todas de piedra y tiene varias iglesias y un castillo. Desde la cima hay vistas magnificas al río Tera y líneas de montañas a lo lejos.
Mañana seguiremos a Requejo y Lubian si todo sale bien y no hay problemas con el camino: desvíos, obras, construcción de la línea del AVE (tren de alta velocidad), etc, etc.
DAY 41 - ASTURIANOS TO PUEBLA DE SANABRIA
Today we left our very peaceful Albergue at around 7:00am and made our way to Puebla de Sanabria, a beautiful town perched on top of a hill, where we last stayed 5 years ago when we did our epic walk from Gibraltar to La Coruña.
At the beginning we had to go on the road for a short while. After that it was all cross-country through woods and heathland. Again we noticed this fungus that seems to be destroying all vegetation. It was sad to note some old oak trees that have been infected. I hope very much that this does not cross over to the UK,
Of particular note today was the proliferation of flies. Hundreds of flies everywhere, making walking difficult as you have to swat the flies while trying to make sure you avoid any big stones on the paths. When we got to Otero de Sanabria, the last village before our destination, we talked to some of the villagers and complained about the flies. They all said "and yes, be careful there are a lot of bees around, as well". No sooner had they said that we both decided going on the road was a much better bet. After a long 6 kilometres we arrived at the outskirts of Puebla de Sanabria, where we stopped at an Hotel to have breakfast at 10:30am. Shortly after we arrived at our Hotel, the same one where we stayed those five years ago. It has been refurbished and is very comfortable.
There are two pharmacies in town yet both were closed and we had to hire a taxi to go the next village to buy some much needed medical supplies for our feet etc. Tomorrow we leave at 6:00am heading for Lubian, some 28 kilometres away.
At the beginning we had to go on the road for a short while. After that it was all cross-country through woods and heathland. Again we noticed this fungus that seems to be destroying all vegetation. It was sad to note some old oak trees that have been infected. I hope very much that this does not cross over to the UK,
Of particular note today was the proliferation of flies. Hundreds of flies everywhere, making walking difficult as you have to swat the flies while trying to make sure you avoid any big stones on the paths. When we got to Otero de Sanabria, the last village before our destination, we talked to some of the villagers and complained about the flies. They all said "and yes, be careful there are a lot of bees around, as well". No sooner had they said that we both decided going on the road was a much better bet. After a long 6 kilometres we arrived at the outskirts of Puebla de Sanabria, where we stopped at an Hotel to have breakfast at 10:30am. Shortly after we arrived at our Hotel, the same one where we stayed those five years ago. It has been refurbished and is very comfortable.
There are two pharmacies in town yet both were closed and we had to hire a taxi to go the next village to buy some much needed medical supplies for our feet etc. Tomorrow we leave at 6:00am heading for Lubian, some 28 kilometres away.
DAY 40 - RIONEGRO DEL PUENTE TO ASTURIANOS - 28KM
Today's highlight must be Ana Maria's ability to finish this long day's trek without any problems with her foot. She has been treating the foot with ice twice a day, plus a strong anti-inflammatory cream. At the same time she has been tying her boot a different way which avoids putting any pressure on the top of the boot. This combination appears to be working.
We started with the intention of seeing how we went and with a couple of options of cutting the trek short. In the end this was not necessary and we went through village after village with me saying "how's the foot - shall we stop" and Ana Maria saying "the foot is better than ever, let's carry on" and this is how it went, even after two stiff climbs. We went through Mombuey, Valderemilla, Cernadilla, San Salvador de Pozuelo (where we stayed the night in 2010), Entrepeñas and Asturianos. On the approach to Asturianos, the route has been changed from that shown on the guide, due to the building of several new roads, and in the end the planned 25kms turned into 28kms. Job well done!
The Albergue in Asturianos (a small village) is five years old and takes 6 people. At the time of writing we are only three. It is situated on the outskirts of the village in a very tranquil spot. After a good lunch and the odd beer and a few glasses of wine, we are ready for tomorrow. Tomorrow we are going to play it safe and will only do some 15 kilometres, stopping in Puebla de Sanabria, which is a beautiful town in which we also stayed five years ago.
Apart from a few short walks on roads, most of the trek was cross-country, with a couple of very strong climbs which rather took the wind out of our sails for a while! A very enjoyable day!
We started with the intention of seeing how we went and with a couple of options of cutting the trek short. In the end this was not necessary and we went through village after village with me saying "how's the foot - shall we stop" and Ana Maria saying "the foot is better than ever, let's carry on" and this is how it went, even after two stiff climbs. We went through Mombuey, Valderemilla, Cernadilla, San Salvador de Pozuelo (where we stayed the night in 2010), Entrepeñas and Asturianos. On the approach to Asturianos, the route has been changed from that shown on the guide, due to the building of several new roads, and in the end the planned 25kms turned into 28kms. Job well done!
The Albergue in Asturianos (a small village) is five years old and takes 6 people. At the time of writing we are only three. It is situated on the outskirts of the village in a very tranquil spot. After a good lunch and the odd beer and a few glasses of wine, we are ready for tomorrow. Tomorrow we are going to play it safe and will only do some 15 kilometres, stopping in Puebla de Sanabria, which is a beautiful town in which we also stayed five years ago.
Apart from a few short walks on roads, most of the trek was cross-country, with a couple of very strong climbs which rather took the wind out of our sails for a while! A very enjoyable day!
DÍA 40 - RIONEGRO DEL PUENTE A ASTURIANOS
Hoy salimos temprano, a las 6.10am, para evitar el fuerte sol de la tarde. La primer parada fue en Mombuey dos horas más tarde donde encontramos el primer bar abierto y pudimos desayunar. En Mombuey hay una iglesia, atribuida a los Caballeros Templarios, que tiene una torre alta donde se ve la cabeza de un buey, en piedra, sobresaliendo en un lado de la misma.
La segunda parada fue en Cernadilla donde el único bar que existía lo han cerrado. Hablamos con una señora mayor que nos comentó que el alcalde decidió no abrir un bar como estaba planeado, aún bajo protesta de los locales. En este pueblo que fue muy importante hace años solo viven ahora 40 personas! Esta situación se repite en muchos de los pequeños pueblos que encontramos. Los jóvenes se van a vivir a las ciudades porque no ven un futuro y tan sólo los viejos se quedan. Al cerrar los bares, restaurantes, etc el pueblo poco a poco queda abandonado.
Esta etapa fue mayormente por senderos de tierra, pasando por varios bosques y áreas sin mucha vegetación. Un sube y baja todo el camino! Tuvimos que hacer dos desvíos por la construcción de carreteras y autovias que sumaron algunos kilómetros extra. Mi pié respondió bien, mejor que en los días pasados, y pudimos completar los 28 kms hasta Asturianos. El cambiar la forma de atar la bota y el continuar con el tratamiento de hielo y antiinflamatorios ha hecho diferencia.
Estamos en un pequeño pero bien acondicionado albergue, bastante nuevo, con gran espacio verde afuera. Sólo un peregrino más aquí. Buen lugar de descanso. Mañana una etapa bastante corta hasta Puebla de Sanabria.
La segunda parada fue en Cernadilla donde el único bar que existía lo han cerrado. Hablamos con una señora mayor que nos comentó que el alcalde decidió no abrir un bar como estaba planeado, aún bajo protesta de los locales. En este pueblo que fue muy importante hace años solo viven ahora 40 personas! Esta situación se repite en muchos de los pequeños pueblos que encontramos. Los jóvenes se van a vivir a las ciudades porque no ven un futuro y tan sólo los viejos se quedan. Al cerrar los bares, restaurantes, etc el pueblo poco a poco queda abandonado.
Esta etapa fue mayormente por senderos de tierra, pasando por varios bosques y áreas sin mucha vegetación. Un sube y baja todo el camino! Tuvimos que hacer dos desvíos por la construcción de carreteras y autovias que sumaron algunos kilómetros extra. Mi pié respondió bien, mejor que en los días pasados, y pudimos completar los 28 kms hasta Asturianos. El cambiar la forma de atar la bota y el continuar con el tratamiento de hielo y antiinflamatorios ha hecho diferencia.
Estamos en un pequeño pero bien acondicionado albergue, bastante nuevo, con gran espacio verde afuera. Sólo un peregrino más aquí. Buen lugar de descanso. Mañana una etapa bastante corta hasta Puebla de Sanabria.
Friday, 19 June 2015
DAY 39 - OLLEROS DE TERA TO RIONEGRE DEL PUENTE - 16KM
Today we finished what we started yesterday. A short 16 kilometres to Rionegro del Puente. We were able to stop for about half an hour in Villar de Farfón, to enable Ana Maria to rest her foot. Tomorrow we have to do at least 22 Kms and possibly 25kms before we find somewhere to sleep so we are hoping "her" foot will behave!
The path today was very pleasant. First a few kilometres steadily climbing gently up the side of a mountain to then descend on the other side towards the dam and reservoir of Agavanzal. What a beautiful sight. Also very peaceful. There were some workmen on the dam itself clearing the road that traverses it, of small shrubs that grow in all the little crevices. Apparently this is done once a year!
We then went round about 60% of the reservoir along a very nice path for several more kilometres! One thing we have noticed in various parts we have walked on this trip, but particularly today, is that there is some type of white fungus that is slowly killing off all the vegetation, including trees! We wonder if anything is being done about this. At the end of this we came across the tiny village of Villar de Farfón, where we stopped by the side of the church for about half an hour.
From there we started to climb cross-country, along a narrow but fairly decent path, lined mainly with shrubs a lot of them infected with this fungus. At the end of several kilometres we had climbed to 850m. In the distance we could see the town of Rionegro del Puente, which we entered four hours after leaving Olleros de Tera. We are staying at the same Albergue where we stayed five years ago. We have a funny anecdote of that previous visit. When we arrived there were two pilgrims staying. One was a young Korean girl who came up to us and in very bad English appeared to be saying that there was a big rat inside the drawer of a wardrobe on the ground floor. We thought this rather ridiculous and felt that she meant something else. On closer examination we found a HUGE rat in the drawer! We beat a hasty retreat and called the "hospitalera" who in turn called her husband who came with a burly mate to eliminate the danger, while we drank a couple of beers in the local bar! What had happened was that workmen had been working nearby on some drains and had disturbed the rat who fled into our building! This time round we have made sure there are no intruders!
This is one of the better Albergues on this route. It's on two floors, built in 2006 and can house 24 people in comfort. It has a kitchen, a lounge area, washing and drying facilities and a library. It costs 7 Euros per person per night. It contrast in style with the more colourful one we enjoyed last night!
Tomorrow we face a different challenge, that is to see if Ana Maria's foot can last at least 22 Kms. We intend to start early in the morning so that we can rest several times on the way. Fingers crossed!
The path today was very pleasant. First a few kilometres steadily climbing gently up the side of a mountain to then descend on the other side towards the dam and reservoir of Agavanzal. What a beautiful sight. Also very peaceful. There were some workmen on the dam itself clearing the road that traverses it, of small shrubs that grow in all the little crevices. Apparently this is done once a year!
We then went round about 60% of the reservoir along a very nice path for several more kilometres! One thing we have noticed in various parts we have walked on this trip, but particularly today, is that there is some type of white fungus that is slowly killing off all the vegetation, including trees! We wonder if anything is being done about this. At the end of this we came across the tiny village of Villar de Farfón, where we stopped by the side of the church for about half an hour.
From there we started to climb cross-country, along a narrow but fairly decent path, lined mainly with shrubs a lot of them infected with this fungus. At the end of several kilometres we had climbed to 850m. In the distance we could see the town of Rionegro del Puente, which we entered four hours after leaving Olleros de Tera. We are staying at the same Albergue where we stayed five years ago. We have a funny anecdote of that previous visit. When we arrived there were two pilgrims staying. One was a young Korean girl who came up to us and in very bad English appeared to be saying that there was a big rat inside the drawer of a wardrobe on the ground floor. We thought this rather ridiculous and felt that she meant something else. On closer examination we found a HUGE rat in the drawer! We beat a hasty retreat and called the "hospitalera" who in turn called her husband who came with a burly mate to eliminate the danger, while we drank a couple of beers in the local bar! What had happened was that workmen had been working nearby on some drains and had disturbed the rat who fled into our building! This time round we have made sure there are no intruders!
This is one of the better Albergues on this route. It's on two floors, built in 2006 and can house 24 people in comfort. It has a kitchen, a lounge area, washing and drying facilities and a library. It costs 7 Euros per person per night. It contrast in style with the more colourful one we enjoyed last night!
Tomorrow we face a different challenge, that is to see if Ana Maria's foot can last at least 22 Kms. We intend to start early in the morning so that we can rest several times on the way. Fingers crossed!
DIA 39 - OLLEROS DE TERA A RÍONEGRO DEL PUENTE
La etapa de hoy fue agradable. Caminamos casi todo el tiempo por senderos de tierra. Subimos por espacios sin gran vegetación y luego por montes mediterráneos. Llegamos y cruzamos la represa de Agavanzal y luego bajando bordeamos la orilla del embalse por bastante tiempo antes de subir otra vez y llegar a Villar de Farfón donde nuevamente el pueblo estaba desierto y el bar cerrado!
Continuamos subiendo paulatinamente hasta llegar a los 850 m para luego comenzar el descenso a Ríonegro del Puente a 800 m de altura.
Entramos al pueblo cruzando el puente antiguo sobre el río Negro y llegamos a la gran plaza, donde están el ayuntamiento, el albergue y el santuario de la Virgen de la Carballeda de la cofradía de los Falifos. Carballo es una palabra gallega con la que denominan al roble.
La iglesia esta cerrada pero tuvimos suerte de ver a una señora que estaba haciendo arreglos en su interior unos permitió una corta visita. Aquí se encuentra una hermosa figura del apóstol Santiago de madera policromada del siglo XV. A la entrada del santuario, en la parte izquierda se encuentra un nicho donde se dejaban a los bebés abandonados y que la cofradía se encargaba de criar y luego recibían el nombre de "Caballés", apellido que todavía es común en esta región.
Nos quedamos en el albergue que tiene lugar para 24 personas en dos pisos y que está en muy buenas condiciones. Ya lo conocíamos de nuestra caminata anterior del 2010. De momento sólo estamos nosotros y un español aquí.
Continuamos subiendo paulatinamente hasta llegar a los 850 m para luego comenzar el descenso a Ríonegro del Puente a 800 m de altura.
Entramos al pueblo cruzando el puente antiguo sobre el río Negro y llegamos a la gran plaza, donde están el ayuntamiento, el albergue y el santuario de la Virgen de la Carballeda de la cofradía de los Falifos. Carballo es una palabra gallega con la que denominan al roble.
La iglesia esta cerrada pero tuvimos suerte de ver a una señora que estaba haciendo arreglos en su interior unos permitió una corta visita. Aquí se encuentra una hermosa figura del apóstol Santiago de madera policromada del siglo XV. A la entrada del santuario, en la parte izquierda se encuentra un nicho donde se dejaban a los bebés abandonados y que la cofradía se encargaba de criar y luego recibían el nombre de "Caballés", apellido que todavía es común en esta región.
Nos quedamos en el albergue que tiene lugar para 24 personas en dos pisos y que está en muy buenas condiciones. Ya lo conocíamos de nuestra caminata anterior del 2010. De momento sólo estamos nosotros y un español aquí.
Thursday, 18 June 2015
DÍA 38 - SANTA MARTA DE TERA A OLLEROS DE TERA
Una etapa corta hoy. Mi pie esta mejor pero me pareció mejor no forzarlo para llegar a Ríonegro del Puente. Caminamos 15 kms y mañana serán otros tantos.
La primera parte fue por un sendero al lado del río Tera, luego por bosques y por carretera cruzamos el puente sobre el Tera en su parte más ancha. Hermosa vista! Luego senderos al lado de plantaciones de maíz y más bosques para después ir por camino de tierra al lado de canales de riego por varios kilómetros. Llegamos a Olleros de Tera y pudimos desayunar. Otros bares en pueblos anteriores no abrían hasta el mediodía!
Hay un albergue aquí y no esta mal así que aprovecharemos para darle un respiro al pié y tomarlo tranquilo.
En Olleros no hay mucho que ver pero tiene una iglesia interesante con escalones estrechos de piedra hasta el campanario donde Robert hizo de modelo para la foto obligada! También hay una señal de la vía romana número XVII.
Hoy volvimos a encontrar en Olleros a un grupo de 16 peregrinos de Puerto Rico que están haciendo el camino por 12 días, con soporte de minibuses y transporte de mochilas. Ayer los vimos en la iglesia de Santa Marta.
Mañana seguiremos a Ríonegro del Puente.
La primera parte fue por un sendero al lado del río Tera, luego por bosques y por carretera cruzamos el puente sobre el Tera en su parte más ancha. Hermosa vista! Luego senderos al lado de plantaciones de maíz y más bosques para después ir por camino de tierra al lado de canales de riego por varios kilómetros. Llegamos a Olleros de Tera y pudimos desayunar. Otros bares en pueblos anteriores no abrían hasta el mediodía!
Hay un albergue aquí y no esta mal así que aprovecharemos para darle un respiro al pié y tomarlo tranquilo.
En Olleros no hay mucho que ver pero tiene una iglesia interesante con escalones estrechos de piedra hasta el campanario donde Robert hizo de modelo para la foto obligada! También hay una señal de la vía romana número XVII.
Hoy volvimos a encontrar en Olleros a un grupo de 16 peregrinos de Puerto Rico que están haciendo el camino por 12 días, con soporte de minibuses y transporte de mochilas. Ayer los vimos en la iglesia de Santa Marta.
Mañana seguiremos a Ríonegro del Puente.
DAY 38 - SANTA MARTA DE TERA TO OLLEROS DE TERA
Today the hike should have been 28 Kms to Rionegro del Puente, but we stopped after 15kms as Ana Maria's foot was beginning to hurt. Tomorrow we will do the balance. Although we lose a day it will give Ana Maria a better chance to let the foot heal.
The path today has been very pleasant. First through woods, then zig-zagging along the edge of fields mainly planted with corn, followed by an extremely long irrigation canal. This led straight to this small village, which boasts a private "Albergue" which costs the princely sum of 6 Euros each!
The path today has been very pleasant. First through woods, then zig-zagging along the edge of fields mainly planted with corn, followed by an extremely long irrigation canal. This led straight to this small village, which boasts a private "Albergue" which costs the princely sum of 6 Euros each!
Wednesday, 17 June 2015
DIA 37 - BENAVENTE A SANTA MARTA DE TERA
Hoy hicimos una etapa más corta. Caminamos bastante por carretera para acortar el trayecto. Luego tomamos el camino señalizado con las flechas y caminamos por un sendero entre árboles y al lado del río Tera con buenas vistas al mismo. En un momento tuvimos problemas siguiendo las flechas que nos llevaron hasta la misma orilla del río con enormes piedras y difícil de pasar. Conseguimos retomar otro sendero que luego se convirtió en un pastizal que tuvimos que atravesar con dificultad para subir nuevamente a la carretera.
En Santa Marta de Tera hay un buen albergue que compartimos con otros 4 peregrinos que vienen de la Vía de la Plata.
Visitamos la iglesia que es la más antigua de la provincia de Zamora y donde se encuentra la figura más antigua de Santiago Peregrino, símbolo del Camino de Santiago y Sanabrés. La iglesia y figura son del siglo XII.
En Santa Marta de Tera hay un buen albergue que compartimos con otros 4 peregrinos que vienen de la Vía de la Plata.
Visitamos la iglesia que es la más antigua de la provincia de Zamora y donde se encuentra la figura más antigua de Santiago Peregrino, símbolo del Camino de Santiago y Sanabrés. La iglesia y figura son del siglo XII.
DAY 37- BENAVENTE TO SANTA MARTA DE TERA - 20kms
The day went well with Ana Maria being able to last the distance. She finished with her foot slightly swollen but not to the extent of previous days. In order to cut distances we walked for a while on the road and then carried on the marked path. This was beautiful as most of the way the path follows the river Tera.
At one point the arrow that marks the way had been moved and pointed the wrong way and before we knew it we were right down to the river bank without a way out. Eventually we managed to scramble out and got back on the road. The weather was fine today. No rain and temperatures in the low twenties.
Tomorrow the journey is 28 Kms but we have the opportunity of stopping at 13 and 21kms so we will see how Ana Maria's foot is and take the decision then, either to stop or to carry on to Rionegro del Puente.
At one point the arrow that marks the way had been moved and pointed the wrong way and before we knew it we were right down to the river bank without a way out. Eventually we managed to scramble out and got back on the road. The weather was fine today. No rain and temperatures in the low twenties.
Tomorrow the journey is 28 Kms but we have the opportunity of stopping at 13 and 21kms so we will see how Ana Maria's foot is and take the decision then, either to stop or to carry on to Rionegro del Puente.
Tuesday, 16 June 2015
DÍA 35-36 - BENAVENTE
Llegamos anoche a Benavente y hoy nos preparamos para reemprender nuestra caminata mañana. Visitamos el centro, un par de iglesias, el teatro Reina Sofía (edificio de 1928), los paseos de la Mota y finalmente el Parador de Turismo "Rey Fernando II de León". Este palacio fue uno de los alcázares más suntuosos de España. Hoy sólo se conserva la llamada Torre del Caracol del siglo XVI cuyo techo está cubierto por un magnífico artesonado morisco procedente del desaparecido convento de San Román del Valle.
En total caminamos unos 10 kms en preparación para mañana, claro que sin mochilas!
En total caminamos unos 10 kms en preparación para mañana, claro que sin mochilas!
DAYS 35/36 - RESTING IN BENAVENTE - TOMORROW WE CARRY ON!
Our enforced rest seems to be paying off and Ana Maria's foot seems to be much better. We have consequently decided to re-commence our journey tomorrow. The trek tomorrow should be around 30kms, which might be too long for Ana Maria. We hope to shortcut the route by walking partly on roads which should reduce the distance by some eight Kms. Fingers crossed!
Today we have been sightseeing in Benavente, where there is really not much to see. The building which now houses the National Parador used to be one of the most sumptuous palaces in Spain. Now only the XVI century Spiral Tower exists. It has a magnificent Moorish coffered ceiling originating from the former convent of San Román Del Valle.
Today we have been sightseeing in Benavente, where there is really not much to see. The building which now houses the National Parador used to be one of the most sumptuous palaces in Spain. Now only the XVI century Spiral Tower exists. It has a magnificent Moorish coffered ceiling originating from the former convent of San Román Del Valle.
Sunday, 14 June 2015
DAY 34 - RESTING IN MEDINA DEL CAMPO
This morning we made enquiries about taking a bus or train to the next village only to find there are none! The alternative was for us to walk there but we were concerned about Ana Maria's foot. Consequently we went to the local medical centre where they have told Ana Maria to rest for two to three more days before attempting to do a full days hike. At the same time I seem to have developed some allergic reaction to the bee stings of a few days ago with swelling in my left ear, right arm and my neck. So now I have to take a few doses of antihistamine tablets etc for the next three days!
As Ana Maria is unable to walk any distance at present and there is heavy rain predicted for the next couple of days, we have decided to move on to the town of Benavente. Apparently there is one bus that will take us there tomorrow evening at 19:30. This will mean skipping about 120kms of our planned route, but we feel there is no other feasible alternative. If we get stuck in one of the smaller villages, it could become a bigger problem!
We are not going to be too apologetic about this as we reckon we have already travelled around 700kms and from Benavente to Finisterre we still have at least 600kms to go! If our bodies are up to it, we are determined to complete this walk, albeit that it will take us somewhat longer than planned.
As Ana Maria is unable to walk any distance at present and there is heavy rain predicted for the next couple of days, we have decided to move on to the town of Benavente. Apparently there is one bus that will take us there tomorrow evening at 19:30. This will mean skipping about 120kms of our planned route, but we feel there is no other feasible alternative. If we get stuck in one of the smaller villages, it could become a bigger problem!
We are not going to be too apologetic about this as we reckon we have already travelled around 700kms and from Benavente to Finisterre we still have at least 600kms to go! If our bodies are up to it, we are determined to complete this walk, albeit that it will take us somewhat longer than planned.
DÍA 34 - DESCANSO EN ARÉVALO
Hoy descanso. Visitamos el castillo que está bastante cerca del hotel. El castillo/fortaleza de la Mota se construyó entre los siglos XII y XV. La Torre del Homenaje tiene 5 pisos y una altura de 42 metros.
Fuimos al Centro de Salud donde me examinaron el pié nuevamente y reiteraron la recomendación de descanso y tratamiento con antiinflamatorios. Hay progreso y la inflamación está disminuyendo. Robert a su vez necesitó consejo médico por las picaduras de las abejas que le siguen irritando. Pastillas y crema antihistamínica por unos días solucionarán el problema.
Mañana lloverá todo el día así que tomaremos el único autobús que pasa por aquí (a las 19.30) y que va en la dirección que queremos, hacia Benavente. No hay otro medio ni paradas en otros pueblos anteriores del Camino!
Fuimos al Centro de Salud donde me examinaron el pié nuevamente y reiteraron la recomendación de descanso y tratamiento con antiinflamatorios. Hay progreso y la inflamación está disminuyendo. Robert a su vez necesitó consejo médico por las picaduras de las abejas que le siguen irritando. Pastillas y crema antihistamínica por unos días solucionarán el problema.
Mañana lloverá todo el día así que tomaremos el único autobús que pasa por aquí (a las 19.30) y que va en la dirección que queremos, hacia Benavente. No hay otro medio ni paradas en otros pueblos anteriores del Camino!
Saturday, 13 June 2015
DÍA 33 - ARÉVALO A MEDINA DEL CAMPO
Hoy viajamos en tren hasta Medina. No había taxis y Marian, la recepcionista del hotel sé ofreció y nos llevó a la estación. Buen detalle de la Posada!
El viaje en tren fue de sólo 19 minutos! Pensar que nos hubiera llevado todo el día caminando... claro que a 155 kms/hora se llega rápido a cualquier lugar.
Medina del Campo es una ciudad simpática con un casco histórico. Vimos la Plaza Mayor y visitamos la Colegiata y el Palacio Real Testamentario, donde falleció Isabel de Castilla a los 54 años, al día siguiente de terminar y firmar su testamento.
En camino al hotel Robert no pudo resistir comerse un gran pastel con merengue!
Después de un buen descanso nos llegamos a la Feria del Caballo donde vimos algunos hermosos ejemplares y jinetes demostrando su destreza.
Mañana descansamos aquí, en Medina. La lesión del pie esta mejorando y tal como nos aconsejaron, un día más de reposo sería beneficioso.
El viaje en tren fue de sólo 19 minutos! Pensar que nos hubiera llevado todo el día caminando... claro que a 155 kms/hora se llega rápido a cualquier lugar.
Medina del Campo es una ciudad simpática con un casco histórico. Vimos la Plaza Mayor y visitamos la Colegiata y el Palacio Real Testamentario, donde falleció Isabel de Castilla a los 54 años, al día siguiente de terminar y firmar su testamento.
En camino al hotel Robert no pudo resistir comerse un gran pastel con merengue!
Después de un buen descanso nos llegamos a la Feria del Caballo donde vimos algunos hermosos ejemplares y jinetes demostrando su destreza.
Mañana descansamos aquí, en Medina. La lesión del pie esta mejorando y tal como nos aconsejaron, un día más de reposo sería beneficioso.
DAY 33 - RESTING IN MEDINA DEL CAMPO
Ana Maria's foot is still swollen, but less painful. This morning we took a 19 minute train journey to Medina del Campo, where we have booked an hotel and where we will stay for another 24 hours or until Ana Maria can continue walking. Our thanks to Miriam, the weekend hotel receptionist in Arevalo, who drove us to the station in her own car to ensure we got the train on time. There are only two taxis in Arevalo and they obviously do not get up early on a Saturday morning. This is Spain after all!
Medina is celebrating its patron, Saint Anthony with various activities today including a procession from the church earlier today and a horse fair this evening. Medina is steeped in history. It is where Queen Isabel La Catolica lived, where she made her last will and testament and where she died.
Medina is celebrating its patron, Saint Anthony with various activities today including a procession from the church earlier today and a horse fair this evening. Medina is steeped in history. It is where Queen Isabel La Catolica lived, where she made her last will and testament and where she died.
Friday, 12 June 2015
DÍA 32 - ARÉVALO
Hoy decidimos no salir temprano de Arévalo. El pié izquierdo me dolía mucho al caminar y conseguimos ver a un podólogo en la Clínica del Pié muy cerca del hotel. Ramón Prieto, un muchacho muy simpático, es amigo de Angélica, la recepcionista del hotel y nos atendió de maravilla y no nos quiso cobrar por la consulta!
El problema es muscular, posiblemente un nervio atrapado que causa la inflamación y dolor. Aconsejó unos días de descanso, hielo, antiinflamatorios y masajes (trabajito para Robert!). Luego nos recomendó un restaurante cercano que pertenece a la familia y donde probamos la especialidad del lugar, cochinillo asado; exquisito! Creo que llegamos a conocer a casi toda la familia de Ramón.
Nos quedamos aquí, en la Posada de los 5 Linajes, una noche más y otro día en Medina del Campo, nuestra próxima etapa, a donde viajaremos mañana en tren. Si todo va bien reanudaremos nuestra caminata dentro de dos días.
Esta tarde dimos un corto paseo por la parte antigua de la ciudad y visitamos el castillo que fue residencia de la reina Isabel la Católica en su juventud y uno de sus lugares favoritos. Fue restaurado en los años cincuenta cuando se utilizó como silo para guardar trigo. Ahora alberga una exhibición con la selección más grande de semillas y espigas de trigo de toda Europa.
Nos quedamos aquí, en la Posada de los 5 Linajes, una noche más y otro día en Medina del Campo, nuestra próxima etapa, a donde viajaremos mañana en tren. Si todo va bien reanudaremos nuestra caminata dentro de dos días.
Esta tarde dimos un corto paseo por la parte antigua de la ciudad y visitamos el castillo que fue residencia de la reina Isabel la Católica en su juventud y uno de sus lugares favoritos. Fue restaurado en los años cincuenta cuando se utilizó como silo para guardar trigo. Ahora alberga una exhibición con la selección más grande de semillas y espigas de trigo de toda Europa.
DAY 32 - RESTING IN ARÉVALO
As we suspected, Ana Maria's foot was still swollen and painful, so we decided to seek medical help. The receptionist in our hotel, Angelica, has been very sweet, trying to help Ana Maria. She suggested going to the Foot Clinic, run by her friend, Ramon Prieto, located very close to the hotel.
The good news is that Ramon believes the problem is possibly a trapped nerve and with treatment can be overcome. The bad news is that Ana Maria has to rest at least two to three days before we can carry on. Ramon more or less instructed me to massage her foot over the next few days, which Ana Maria is naturally very pleased about! Treatment with ice cold packs, increased use of pain killers and a stronger analgesic cream should do the trick. Our thanks to Angelica and to Ramon, who refused to accept any payment for his consultation.
Tomorrow we are taking a train to our next stop, Medina del Campo where we will rest one day and then see if the foot is better. If it is, we will restart our journey or otherwise we will wait an extra day.
This afternoon we took a short walk to see some of Arévalo's sights, which are quite close to the hotel. Arévalo used to be a favourite place for the Spanish Royal family and Princess Isabel, later to become Queen Isabel La Catolica, spent most of her youth here.
The good news is that Ramon believes the problem is possibly a trapped nerve and with treatment can be overcome. The bad news is that Ana Maria has to rest at least two to three days before we can carry on. Ramon more or less instructed me to massage her foot over the next few days, which Ana Maria is naturally very pleased about! Treatment with ice cold packs, increased use of pain killers and a stronger analgesic cream should do the trick. Our thanks to Angelica and to Ramon, who refused to accept any payment for his consultation.
Tomorrow we are taking a train to our next stop, Medina del Campo where we will rest one day and then see if the foot is better. If it is, we will restart our journey or otherwise we will wait an extra day.
This afternoon we took a short walk to see some of Arévalo's sights, which are quite close to the hotel. Arévalo used to be a favourite place for the Spanish Royal family and Princess Isabel, later to become Queen Isabel La Catolica, spent most of her youth here.
Thursday, 11 June 2015
DAY 31 - GOTARRENDURA TO ARÉVALO - 31KMS
During the night we were joined in our Albergue by some French cyclists, two of whom ended up occupying the two top bunks of our dorm. During the middle of the night one of them fell off and landed with a tremendous thump! Thankfully he did not appear to injure himself. We left early this morning before we could check on him!
We debated whether to walk today or not. It was raining heavily and the sky criss-crossed with lightning strikes. After a more detailed look at the weather forecast we decided to go. Ana Maria's foot, which had been swollen overnight seemed to be better so off we went. This could be classified as a big mistake! It rained non-stop for five solid hours by which time everything was soaked notwithstanding our rain capes! The paths were hopelessly water-logged so we ended up walking on the road. The wind was strong, blowing the rain onto our faces. Around midday the rain stopped but we still had two hours to go. Our elation at the lack of rain was short lived as all of sudden I got the runs and at the same time Ana Maria's foot started to get very painful. At the end of 31 kilometres we limped into Arévalo, feeling rather sorry for ourselves.
We debated whether to walk today or not. It was raining heavily and the sky criss-crossed with lightning strikes. After a more detailed look at the weather forecast we decided to go. Ana Maria's foot, which had been swollen overnight seemed to be better so off we went. This could be classified as a big mistake! It rained non-stop for five solid hours by which time everything was soaked notwithstanding our rain capes! The paths were hopelessly water-logged so we ended up walking on the road. The wind was strong, blowing the rain onto our faces. Around midday the rain stopped but we still had two hours to go. Our elation at the lack of rain was short lived as all of sudden I got the runs and at the same time Ana Maria's foot started to get very painful. At the end of 31 kilometres we limped into Arévalo, feeling rather sorry for ourselves.
To compensate we are staying in a very nice Posada, where we can have a good rest and where we have negotiated a special price for the night. The weather continues to threaten lots of rain and we believe Ana Maria may not be able to continue walking tomorrow. We are considering moving ourselves tomorrow by bus to the next town up, which is bigger and where AnaMaria can seek some medical attention, if necessary. Watch this space!
DÍA 31 - GOTARRENDURA A ARÉVALO
Dos bicigrinos franceses llegaron anoche y ocuparon las dos literas sobre las nuestras. Nuestro albergue completo! Cuando estaba casi dormida, cerca de la 1 de la mañana se escuchó un estrépito; uno de los bicigrinos se cayó de su litera! Fue un fuerte golpe pero menos mal que no fue grave.
Esta mañana salimos a las siete con lluvia, truenos y algunos relámpagos. Optamos ir por la carretera ya que los senderos estaban inundados. Llovió sin parar por 5 horas! Los últimos 15 kms pudimos hacerlos sin lluvia y en gran parte por un sendero a través de un bosque de pinos resinosos. Interesante ver como extraen la savia de los árboles. Este bosque tiene mas de ocho kms de longitud. Robert tuvo problemas de estomago y yo el pie izquierdo muy dolorido e inflamado.
Esta noche nos quedamos en un buen hotel (conseguimos precio especial de peregrinos) y mañana decidiremos como seguir dependiendo del estado de mi pie y de como nos encontremos. También pronostican más lluvia!
Esta mañana salimos a las siete con lluvia, truenos y algunos relámpagos. Optamos ir por la carretera ya que los senderos estaban inundados. Llovió sin parar por 5 horas! Los últimos 15 kms pudimos hacerlos sin lluvia y en gran parte por un sendero a través de un bosque de pinos resinosos. Interesante ver como extraen la savia de los árboles. Este bosque tiene mas de ocho kms de longitud. Robert tuvo problemas de estomago y yo el pie izquierdo muy dolorido e inflamado.
Esta noche nos quedamos en un buen hotel (conseguimos precio especial de peregrinos) y mañana decidiremos como seguir dependiendo del estado de mi pie y de como nos encontremos. También pronostican más lluvia!
DAY 30 - AVILA TO GOTARRENDURA - 25 Kms
After a very relaxing stay in Avila we set off this morning at 06:30am, having had some breakfast although alas not our usual toast with oil! The walk today was very pleasant, low rolling hills and soft underfoot as it had rained during the night.
The path today went through three small villages before reaching our destination Gotarrendura. At every village we were hoping to have a cup of coffee. NO SUCH LUCK! The only bar we could find was in the second village, Cardeñosa, which was naturally closed. In these parts they open at 11:00am! We had a banana and some dried fruit and nuts and carried on. The rest of the walk was mainly through fields and mainly flat.
We reached Gotarrendura at 12:00am having made very good time (for us!). Ana Maria, whose blisters were finally beginning to heal, ended up with her left foot quite swollen, with what looks like a possible sprain. We are a bit worried about this as tomorrow's trek is 28/30kms. We are also very worried as the weather is turning and the forecast is for heavy rain and strong winds, for most of tomorrow. This will make the tracks very muddy and we may have to go on the roads. If the visibility is poor, going on the roads here can be dangerous as drivers are not the most careful. We will see what tomorrow brings. Once we start there is no alternative but to finish as there are no buses that we could take if we find the going gets too bad.
Four French cyclists have just turned up and all of a sudden "our" Albergue has become quite crowded. At least, it's free!
The path today went through three small villages before reaching our destination Gotarrendura. At every village we were hoping to have a cup of coffee. NO SUCH LUCK! The only bar we could find was in the second village, Cardeñosa, which was naturally closed. In these parts they open at 11:00am! We had a banana and some dried fruit and nuts and carried on. The rest of the walk was mainly through fields and mainly flat.
We reached Gotarrendura at 12:00am having made very good time (for us!). Ana Maria, whose blisters were finally beginning to heal, ended up with her left foot quite swollen, with what looks like a possible sprain. We are a bit worried about this as tomorrow's trek is 28/30kms. We are also very worried as the weather is turning and the forecast is for heavy rain and strong winds, for most of tomorrow. This will make the tracks very muddy and we may have to go on the roads. If the visibility is poor, going on the roads here can be dangerous as drivers are not the most careful. We will see what tomorrow brings. Once we start there is no alternative but to finish as there are no buses that we could take if we find the going gets too bad.
Four French cyclists have just turned up and all of a sudden "our" Albergue has become quite crowded. At least, it's free!
DÍA 30 - ÁVILA A GOTARRENDURA
Salimos a las 6.30 después de un pequeño desayuno de magdalenas, tostadas 'Bimbo' confitura y café. Menos mal ya que al llegar a Cardeñosa el único bar del pueblo no abría hasta las 11!
A la salida de Ávila, después de pasar el río Adejar, nos encontramos con 'Los Cuatro Postes' lugar donde Santa Teresa se encontró con su primo cuando iban a ofrecerse como mártires. Desde 'Los Cuatro Postes' hay una vista magnifica de las murallas de Ávila.
Corto descanso en Cardeñosa y a seguir el Camino! Hoy no fue difícil; caminamos por campos y praderas con ganado suelto, abriendo y cerrando cancelas. Mucho más llano y después de un pasar un monte con matorrales y algunos árboles vimos muchos campos de trigo. Varios cruceros que marcan el Camino de Santiago y seguimos por un camino ancho de tierra para así llegar a Gotarrendura. Había viento y no hizo calor, nubes negras amenazando lluvia pero no llegó!
Nos quedamos en el albergue que aquí esta muy bien. Cuatro literas (estamos solos), baño limpio con muy buena ducha, lavarropas y fregadero, tendedero afuera y un saloncito con mesa y sillas.
En Gotarrendura vivieron los padres de Santa Teresa y se cree que ella nació aquí. De la finca quedan sólo las paredes exteriores y el palomar que tiene 500 años! Muy interesante de visitar. Criaban unas 3.000 palomas al año.
Mañana vamos a Arévalo, una etapa más larga.
A la salida de Ávila, después de pasar el río Adejar, nos encontramos con 'Los Cuatro Postes' lugar donde Santa Teresa se encontró con su primo cuando iban a ofrecerse como mártires. Desde 'Los Cuatro Postes' hay una vista magnifica de las murallas de Ávila.
Corto descanso en Cardeñosa y a seguir el Camino! Hoy no fue difícil; caminamos por campos y praderas con ganado suelto, abriendo y cerrando cancelas. Mucho más llano y después de un pasar un monte con matorrales y algunos árboles vimos muchos campos de trigo. Varios cruceros que marcan el Camino de Santiago y seguimos por un camino ancho de tierra para así llegar a Gotarrendura. Había viento y no hizo calor, nubes negras amenazando lluvia pero no llegó!
Nos quedamos en el albergue que aquí esta muy bien. Cuatro literas (estamos solos), baño limpio con muy buena ducha, lavarropas y fregadero, tendedero afuera y un saloncito con mesa y sillas.
En Gotarrendura vivieron los padres de Santa Teresa y se cree que ella nació aquí. De la finca quedan sólo las paredes exteriores y el palomar que tiene 500 años! Muy interesante de visitar. Criaban unas 3.000 palomas al año.
Mañana vamos a Arévalo, una etapa más larga.
Tuesday, 9 June 2015
DAY 28 - SAN BARTOLOME DE PINARES TO AVILA - 30KMS AND DAY 29 - RESTING IN AVILA
A real roller-coaster of a day, climbing up and down hills, up steep rocky paths and then almost running down the other side! Terrible on the feet! It was also a long hot day although from time to time there was a very peasant breeze flowing.
When we left San Bartolome we met William, our Belgian friend and were shocked to see the state of his arms, which were badly scratched. He too had been stung by the bees, had run for it, lost his way and ended up crashing through brambles etc. I should mention that he is a very tough guy, a former Belgian Commando and currently Head of the Criminal Investigation department of the Belgian Police in Brussels! Last night we also met two young Americans, Jonathan and Paul, who are also heading to Santiago.
For the first time on this journey, we saw lots of herds of cows dotting the landscape and from time to time blocking our path. In those cases I always send Ana Maria up front - she has a way with animals(!). The entrance to Avila was very, very long. We could see the town in the distance but had to walk 11 kilometres before we finally made it in! On arriving at the main square we met an Argentine troubadour who serenaded us with a selection of folk music as we sipped a beer!
After our bee attack yesterday we are glad to have the opportunity of relaxing for a whole day in Avila tomorrow. The swelling has subsided but the stings are still painful, particularly those on our head (Ana Maria) and our necks (mainly me), arms, legs etc! We realised today that in our battle with the bees I lost my sunglasses. This was a blow as they were special, lightweight, practically indestructible, transition photochromic prescription glasses which will be impossible to replace on this trip. I thought of sending Ana Maria back to look for them but she didn't want to go for some reason! I'll try to buy a pair of sunglasses tomorrow.
We are now roughly halfway on our journey. We want to thank all those who are following our daily blogs and for the many good wishes we have received. Thank you also to the many who have shown concern whenever we get into a scrape - lets hope there won't be too many more of those. Thank you. Thank you.
DAY 29 - RESTING IN AVILA
Not much to report today as we have mainly just been lazing around. That said Ana Maria went sightseeing around the magnificent walls of Avila. I came to Avila a couple of years ago but as a couple we had last been here over 40 years ago. At the time we lived in Madrid and we came with friends of ours to have a picnic underneath some trees in a field with the impressive walls of Avila as a backdrop. Today the whole area is very built up and you can barely see the walls!
While Ana Maria was sightseeing, I went hunting for a pair of sunglasses and a couple of other things we needed. I had a haircut and a shave, as Ana did not like my new bearded look!
Tomorrow we leave for Gotarrenduras ( don't you love these names!) some 26 Kms away.
When we left San Bartolome we met William, our Belgian friend and were shocked to see the state of his arms, which were badly scratched. He too had been stung by the bees, had run for it, lost his way and ended up crashing through brambles etc. I should mention that he is a very tough guy, a former Belgian Commando and currently Head of the Criminal Investigation department of the Belgian Police in Brussels! Last night we also met two young Americans, Jonathan and Paul, who are also heading to Santiago.
For the first time on this journey, we saw lots of herds of cows dotting the landscape and from time to time blocking our path. In those cases I always send Ana Maria up front - she has a way with animals(!). The entrance to Avila was very, very long. We could see the town in the distance but had to walk 11 kilometres before we finally made it in! On arriving at the main square we met an Argentine troubadour who serenaded us with a selection of folk music as we sipped a beer!
After our bee attack yesterday we are glad to have the opportunity of relaxing for a whole day in Avila tomorrow. The swelling has subsided but the stings are still painful, particularly those on our head (Ana Maria) and our necks (mainly me), arms, legs etc! We realised today that in our battle with the bees I lost my sunglasses. This was a blow as they were special, lightweight, practically indestructible, transition photochromic prescription glasses which will be impossible to replace on this trip. I thought of sending Ana Maria back to look for them but she didn't want to go for some reason! I'll try to buy a pair of sunglasses tomorrow.
We are now roughly halfway on our journey. We want to thank all those who are following our daily blogs and for the many good wishes we have received. Thank you also to the many who have shown concern whenever we get into a scrape - lets hope there won't be too many more of those. Thank you. Thank you.
DAY 29 - RESTING IN AVILA
Not much to report today as we have mainly just been lazing around. That said Ana Maria went sightseeing around the magnificent walls of Avila. I came to Avila a couple of years ago but as a couple we had last been here over 40 years ago. At the time we lived in Madrid and we came with friends of ours to have a picnic underneath some trees in a field with the impressive walls of Avila as a backdrop. Today the whole area is very built up and you can barely see the walls!
While Ana Maria was sightseeing, I went hunting for a pair of sunglasses and a couple of other things we needed. I had a haircut and a shave, as Ana did not like my new bearded look!
Tomorrow we leave for Gotarrenduras ( don't you love these names!) some 26 Kms away.
Sunday, 7 June 2015
DÍA 27 - CEBREROS A SAN BARTOLOME DE PINARES
Hoy empezamos el día subiendo por 'senderos de cabra' hasta la cima de la montaña, un sendero muy duro entre grandes rocas y piedras, tratando de espantar a los cientos de moscas que nos rodeaban y a las que parecía gustarle el repelente! Luego pasamos por unos bosques hermosos para después seguir subiendo por senderos pedregosos. Seguimos por terreno llano con poca vegetación. Al empezar a descender por la ladera, siempre siguiendo las flechas amarillas del camino, nos atacó un enjambre de abejas agresivas (africanas?) y tuvimos que retroceder unos 100 metros hasta que desistieron en su persecución y ataque. Nos picaron una docena de veces y fue muy doloroso! Tuvimos que sacar los agujones uno por uno pero fue difícil de quitar los que tenía en la cabeza, que dolor! Lo único bueno fue que por un rato los pies no dolían! Tuvimos que hacer un gran desvío y buscar una carretera que eventualmente nos llevó nuevamente al Camino. La bajada a San Bartolomé la hicimos por una carretera con unas vistas espectaculares de las montañas y valles y campos de lavanda al otro lado. No había mucho tráfico pero si bastantes ciclistas participando en una carrera o disfrutando de su paseo dominguero.
Mañana a Ávila, donde descansaremos un día!
Mañana a Ávila, donde descansaremos un día!
DAY 27 - CEBREROS TO SAN BARTOLOME DE PINARES - 19KMS
Today was a really tough day. We set off at 07:00 and started climbing up what can only be described as an overgrown goat track! This was probably the toughest climb we have ever faced and we had to stop several times to catch our breath! The climb was about a kilometre and climbed roughly 500 meters. It took us over one hour to climb!
Once at the top of the mountain we had stunning views of the surrounding countryside. We carried on walking across the mountain, over beautiful landscapes, full of wild lavender. Truly magnificent.
Then I got stung! At first we thought it was a Tabano, a type of blue bottle fly, but we were soon surrounded by what turned out to be a swarm of very aggressive bees. We have never encountered anything like this before and we hope never to again! It was a frightening experience. Both Ana Maria and I were stung about a dozen times each, before we managed to run away, with the bees in hot pursuit! Ana Maria got stung quite badly in her head, which was very painful while I got most of my stings in my neck, ears and arms. We still shudder every time we hear a buzzing sound! The annoying thing is that we found there were about thirty beehives ( probably set up without permission, right in the path of our Camino)
We had to take a long detour by road to avoid the bees and were glad to reach Cebreros. We opted for a Hostal instead of the Albergue to lick our wounds! Tomorrow we have a very long day to reach Avila, where we hope to rest for an extra day.
Once at the top of the mountain we had stunning views of the surrounding countryside. We carried on walking across the mountain, over beautiful landscapes, full of wild lavender. Truly magnificent.
Then I got stung! At first we thought it was a Tabano, a type of blue bottle fly, but we were soon surrounded by what turned out to be a swarm of very aggressive bees. We have never encountered anything like this before and we hope never to again! It was a frightening experience. Both Ana Maria and I were stung about a dozen times each, before we managed to run away, with the bees in hot pursuit! Ana Maria got stung quite badly in her head, which was very painful while I got most of my stings in my neck, ears and arms. We still shudder every time we hear a buzzing sound! The annoying thing is that we found there were about thirty beehives ( probably set up without permission, right in the path of our Camino)
We had to take a long detour by road to avoid the bees and were glad to reach Cebreros. We opted for a Hostal instead of the Albergue to lick our wounds! Tomorrow we have a very long day to reach Avila, where we hope to rest for an extra day.
DAY 26 - CADALSO DE LOS VIDRIOS TO CEBREROS
Today was one of those days when you think you have a relatively short day ahead and then you find they've changed the route and it's actually 26 Kms and not 21kms! That said it was a nice and varied day. First a really steep descent for several hundred meters along a narrow slippery rocky track. Later through a beautiful and tranquil forest with a really good track.
Later in the morning we arrived at the Toros de Guisando, stone statues of bulls thought to be of Celtic origins and predate Roman occupation in Spain. This spot was chosen to name Princess Isabel the successor to the throne of Castille and Leon in 1482.
We ended the day by crossing two medieval bridges and then enduring a really steep climb up an never-ending concrete road to reach Cebreros, completely exhausted! Tomorrow we leave for San Bartolome de Pinares, our final stop before Avila.
Later in the morning we arrived at the Toros de Guisando, stone statues of bulls thought to be of Celtic origins and predate Roman occupation in Spain. This spot was chosen to name Princess Isabel the successor to the throne of Castille and Leon in 1482.
We ended the day by crossing two medieval bridges and then enduring a really steep climb up an never-ending concrete road to reach Cebreros, completely exhausted! Tomorrow we leave for San Bartolome de Pinares, our final stop before Avila.
DIA 26 - CADALSO DE LOS VIDRIOS A CEBREROS
Un día largo, una etapa que estaba supuesto a ser de 21 kms terminó siendo de 26 kms! Han cambiado la ruta. Primero una fuerte bajada por senderos de mucha piedra y resbaladizos. Luego por bosques bonitos y tranquilos, caminos pecuarios y salida a una carretera principal con bastante tráfico. Otra carretera con poco tráfico nos llevó hasta los Toros de Guisando. Estas cuatro figuras de granito son de origen vetón. Fueron realizadas entre el siglo IV y I antes de Cristo, en plena Edad de Hierro.
Más carretera y luego camino de tierra pasando por unos puentes medievales de piedra. Por ultimo una subida muy severa bajo fuerte sol para llegar a Cebreros agotados.
El albergue parecía bueno pero por una avería no tenían agua caliente! Decidimos quedarnos en un hotel. Próxima parada San Bartolomé de Pinares.
Más carretera y luego camino de tierra pasando por unos puentes medievales de piedra. Por ultimo una subida muy severa bajo fuerte sol para llegar a Cebreros agotados.
El albergue parecía bueno pero por una avería no tenían agua caliente! Decidimos quedarnos en un hotel. Próxima parada San Bartolomé de Pinares.
Friday, 5 June 2015
DÍA 25 - ESCALONA A CADALSO DE LOS VIDRIOS
Anoche hizo mucho calor en el albergue/acogida y compartiendo la habitación con otros 3 peregrinos y 2 bicigrinos fue difícil dormir. A las 5 se escuchó una alarma y aprovechamos para prepararnos para salir nosotros también. No se si fuimos los más rápidos o desesperados pero fuimos los primeros en emprender la marcha minutos antes de las 6!
Los primeros 5 kms fueron por carretera, muy poco tráfico y fresco! En Paredes de Escalona paramos a tomar nuestro desayuno de masitas 'paciencia' rellenas de chocolate hechas por María del Mar, bananas y agua! Los bares todos cerrados por supuesto!
Saliendo de Paredes fuimos por un sendero por las montañas, hermoso paisaje pero un poco cansino caminar por ese terreno por 9 kms. Grandes rocas y vistas a otras montañas aún más altas.
Los últimos 7 kms fueron por carretera secundaria hasta Cadalso. Hoy nos quedamos en un hostal para recuperar el sueño perdido anoche y descansar cómodamente.
''Cadalso' significa lugar alto, mientras que 'de los vidrios' hace referencia a la fabricación de este material que lo hizo famoso a finales del siglo XII. Ejemplo de ello es gran parte de la cristalería de la Real Botica del Monasterio del Escorial. Algunas piezas se encuentran en el museo Británico de Londres.
Actualmente se dedican a la viticultura y a la transformación de granito destinado a la construcción y elementos decorativos. Hay varias canteras cercanas.
Mañana seguimos a Cebreros.
Los primeros 5 kms fueron por carretera, muy poco tráfico y fresco! En Paredes de Escalona paramos a tomar nuestro desayuno de masitas 'paciencia' rellenas de chocolate hechas por María del Mar, bananas y agua! Los bares todos cerrados por supuesto!
Saliendo de Paredes fuimos por un sendero por las montañas, hermoso paisaje pero un poco cansino caminar por ese terreno por 9 kms. Grandes rocas y vistas a otras montañas aún más altas.
Los últimos 7 kms fueron por carretera secundaria hasta Cadalso. Hoy nos quedamos en un hostal para recuperar el sueño perdido anoche y descansar cómodamente.
''Cadalso' significa lugar alto, mientras que 'de los vidrios' hace referencia a la fabricación de este material que lo hizo famoso a finales del siglo XII. Ejemplo de ello es gran parte de la cristalería de la Real Botica del Monasterio del Escorial. Algunas piezas se encuentran en el museo Británico de Londres.
Actualmente se dedican a la viticultura y a la transformación de granito destinado a la construcción y elementos decorativos. Hay varias canteras cercanas.
Mañana seguimos a Cebreros.
DAY 25 - ESCALONA TO CADALSO DE LOS VIDRIOS - 22KM
Our son James is a keen and accomplished mountain climber. Today I remembered the three rules of mountaineering:
"It's always further than it looks, It's always taller than it looks and it's always harder than it looks"
These rules could well have been applied to our trek today. It all started badly. Last night we had a full complement of seven people filling our small albergue in Escalona. At 8:00pm the temperature in the sun was 42C degrees and 31C in the shade. The albergue was like an oven and it was impossible to sleep. I reckon that Ana Maria and I had about 3.5 to 4 hours sleep!
We therefore set off feeling pretty tired. The first five Kms by road to Paredes de Los Vidrios where we had hoped to find a bar open for breakfast. No such luck. Breakfast in the village square of a banana, a few "paciencias" ( lovely chocolate filled biscuits) made by Mari Mar, and water!
The next stage was a beautiful but very hard walk up the mountain side always climbing, over large rocky paths, with stunning scenery. This went on for some nine kilometres by which time we were pretty exhausted. We stopped several times to tend to our blisters which were suffering from the harsh conditions underfoot. Once out of the mountain paths we then had to endure a climb of some 8 kilometres up a secondary Tarmac road which took us nearly two and a half hours. Every time you thought you had reached the top, another climb beckoned round the next bend in the road. Had it gone on for much longer I don't think I could have made it to the top!
We arrived at 11:10am, a total journey time of 5 hours and 15 minutes, which given the conditions was pretty good going, at least for us!
This evening we decided to reject the offer of free accommodation in the local Polideportivo and opted instead for a very nice but inexpensive Hostal, complete with swimming pool. Unfortunately we don't have swimsuits so we've had to forgo the pleasure of a dip! Tonight we met up with our Belgian friend, William, who is staying at the Polideportivo, for a couple of beers!
Cadalso de Los Vidrios has an interesting past having been one of the major manufacturers of fine crystal in Europe. Sadly no more! We understand that examples of their wares can be found in the Monastery of El Escorial and in the British Museum in London.
It's just gone 8:00pm and we are off to bed to see what adventure awaits tomorrow. Just before we go, "por favor, dos cervezas más, y media racion de queso y jamon"
"It's always further than it looks, It's always taller than it looks and it's always harder than it looks"
These rules could well have been applied to our trek today. It all started badly. Last night we had a full complement of seven people filling our small albergue in Escalona. At 8:00pm the temperature in the sun was 42C degrees and 31C in the shade. The albergue was like an oven and it was impossible to sleep. I reckon that Ana Maria and I had about 3.5 to 4 hours sleep!
We therefore set off feeling pretty tired. The first five Kms by road to Paredes de Los Vidrios where we had hoped to find a bar open for breakfast. No such luck. Breakfast in the village square of a banana, a few "paciencias" ( lovely chocolate filled biscuits) made by Mari Mar, and water!
The next stage was a beautiful but very hard walk up the mountain side always climbing, over large rocky paths, with stunning scenery. This went on for some nine kilometres by which time we were pretty exhausted. We stopped several times to tend to our blisters which were suffering from the harsh conditions underfoot. Once out of the mountain paths we then had to endure a climb of some 8 kilometres up a secondary Tarmac road which took us nearly two and a half hours. Every time you thought you had reached the top, another climb beckoned round the next bend in the road. Had it gone on for much longer I don't think I could have made it to the top!
We arrived at 11:10am, a total journey time of 5 hours and 15 minutes, which given the conditions was pretty good going, at least for us!
This evening we decided to reject the offer of free accommodation in the local Polideportivo and opted instead for a very nice but inexpensive Hostal, complete with swimming pool. Unfortunately we don't have swimsuits so we've had to forgo the pleasure of a dip! Tonight we met up with our Belgian friend, William, who is staying at the Polideportivo, for a couple of beers!
Cadalso de Los Vidrios has an interesting past having been one of the major manufacturers of fine crystal in Europe. Sadly no more! We understand that examples of their wares can be found in the Monastery of El Escorial and in the British Museum in London.
It's just gone 8:00pm and we are off to bed to see what adventure awaits tomorrow. Just before we go, "por favor, dos cervezas más, y media racion de queso y jamon"
Thursday, 4 June 2015
DÍA 24 NOVES A ESCALONA
Nos levantamos temprano y a las 5.45 estábamos en la casa de Felipe y Maria del Mar que insistieron en darnos el desayuno! A las 6.30 salimos para Escalona con Felipe que insistió en acompañarnos. Así fue que tuvimos un guía experto toda esta etapa; no tuvimos que preocuparnos en estudiar el camino ni buscar las flechas. En Quismondo, mitad de camino, paramos para tomar un café y luego seguimos a Escalona. Una etapa sin dificultad hasta la entrada al pueblo donde hay que pasar un puente sin arcén y con mucho trafico, bastante peligroso! Luego hubo que subir muchos escalones para finalmente llegar al pueblo mismo con un gran castillo y hermosas vistas al río Alberche desde lo alto. Felipe nos ayudó a encontrar el albergue y conseguir la llave de la Guardia Civil. De camino al albergue, a casi un kilómetro de distancia, nos encontramos con una pareja de franceses (haciendo el camino de Levante) y un belga. Tomamos en turno darnos una ducha y luego fuimos nuevamente al centro a esperar a la señora de Felipe que venia a recogerlo. Los invitamos a almorzar y se unió el belga al grupo. Comimos muy bien y en buena compañía. Nuestros nuevos amigos de Novés son muy simpáticos e insistieron en darnos fruta, masitas y pasas para el camino; también una pulsera con motivo de Santiago como recuerdo, hecha por la hija! Los recordaremos con cariño.
Hoy por la tarde hizo mucho calor, a las 8 pm todavía 31C! Mañana también saldremos temprano para Cadalso de los Vidrios para tratar de evitar el calor excesivo de la tarde. Por suerte una etapa no muy larga.
Hoy por la tarde hizo mucho calor, a las 8 pm todavía 31C! Mañana también saldremos temprano para Cadalso de los Vidrios para tratar de evitar el calor excesivo de la tarde. Por suerte una etapa no muy larga.
DAY 24 - NOVÉS TO ESCALONA - 20KM
This morning at 06:00 we were having breakfast with our new-found friend Felipe and MariMar in their house. Felipe insisted on coming with us to Escalona and we set off just after 06:30. Felipe talked non-stop all the way, eager to share his thoughts about the Camino, his village and life in General.
We stopped approximately half-way through in the village of Guismondo, to have a coffee and then continued on our way. Before we knew it we were looking at the wonderful sight of the castle of Escalona and the beautiful if rather steep entrance to the town. The Police brought the keys to the town's albergue, where we settled in to have a shower etc. Later, MariMar came to join us and we had lunch with them and also with another fellow walker from Belgium, William. Several other "pilgrims have joined our Albergue tonight and it looks as if we have full house for the first time on this route of Camino del Sureste.
Tomorrow we have around 20 Kms again when we wend our way towards Cadalso de Los Vidrios. Avila, our next rest stop, is getting that little bit closer!
We stopped approximately half-way through in the village of Guismondo, to have a coffee and then continued on our way. Before we knew it we were looking at the wonderful sight of the castle of Escalona and the beautiful if rather steep entrance to the town. The Police brought the keys to the town's albergue, where we settled in to have a shower etc. Later, MariMar came to join us and we had lunch with them and also with another fellow walker from Belgium, William. Several other "pilgrims have joined our Albergue tonight and it looks as if we have full house for the first time on this route of Camino del Sureste.
Tomorrow we have around 20 Kms again when we wend our way towards Cadalso de Los Vidrios. Avila, our next rest stop, is getting that little bit closer!
Wednesday, 3 June 2015
DÍA 23 - TOLEDO A NOVES
Una pequeña maratón hoy! Salimos de Toledo a las 6.00 y llegamos a Noves a las 17.00. Un total de 39 kms! Un par de Guardias Civiles nos indicaron al camino a seguir a las afueras de Toledo.
Mayormente caminamos por carretera, por vía de servicio, cruzamos el río Guadarrama, y luego por un camino rural en bastante mal estado que se hizo larguísimo. Ahí también tuvimos que pasar entre un rebaño de ovejas por un camino muy estrecho! Almorzamos en Huecas y continuamos por mejor camino los últimos 8 kms para llegar a Noves. Hoy nos quedamos en un albergue parroquial, ubicado en un centro de distribución de alimentos para necesitados. Don Eladio, el párroco, está a cargo. Tenemos una habitación con dos camas y no mucho lugar para más. Por lo menos nos pudimos dar una buena ducha!
Felipe, un amigo de los peregrinos nos dió la bienvenida a Novés (estaba pintando la verja de entrada a su casa) y su señora nos dió unas ricas masitas de coco! Gente muy amable. Mañana la etapa es más corta...
Mayormente caminamos por carretera, por vía de servicio, cruzamos el río Guadarrama, y luego por un camino rural en bastante mal estado que se hizo larguísimo. Ahí también tuvimos que pasar entre un rebaño de ovejas por un camino muy estrecho! Almorzamos en Huecas y continuamos por mejor camino los últimos 8 kms para llegar a Noves. Hoy nos quedamos en un albergue parroquial, ubicado en un centro de distribución de alimentos para necesitados. Don Eladio, el párroco, está a cargo. Tenemos una habitación con dos camas y no mucho lugar para más. Por lo menos nos pudimos dar una buena ducha!
Felipe, un amigo de los peregrinos nos dió la bienvenida a Novés (estaba pintando la verja de entrada a su casa) y su señora nos dió unas ricas masitas de coco! Gente muy amable. Mañana la etapa es más corta...
DAY 23 - TOLEDO TO NOVÉS - 39KM
Today we left at 06:00 feeling refreshed after our rest in Toledo. We managed to get some breakfast on the outskirts of town and were on our way by 06:45. At one point we were unsure as to which way to go and a couple of friendly members of the Guardia Civil came to show us the way!
Our plan today was to spend the night in Rielves, about 25 kms away. Most of the route was either on the roads or on paths by the side of roads. As we neared Rielves we realised we were feeling good enough to try the next town, Novés another 14 Kms further on. In between was the village of Huecas. We headed for that in the hope it would have a bar where we could stock up with more water (it was very hot) and maybe have a bite to eat. This was the worst part of the day. We followed a "Camino rural" which was terribly overgrown and almost impassable at times. This slowed us down considerably but in the end we arrived in Huescas, having drunk our last drop of water! We found an excellent bar where we had a most enjoyable lunch and headed off again. By this time the temperature was beginning to rise to mid thirties and we suffered again as there was not much shade anywhere. Eventually we arrived in Novés at 5:00pm, 11 hours later!
It is not often that we are tempted to try in the region of a 40 km hike. Today we did and I'm delighted to say we succeeded. Our arrival was warmly welcomed by a member of the local Amigos del Camino, Felipe and the local priest, both of whom were very impressed that we had managed such a long trip. We were offered ice cold water and some local delicacies made by Felipe's wife. The priest then took us to the local "albergue" in a Caritas shelter. It's a bit basic but has beds and a shower, which is all we need. I am sure we will sleep soundly tonight as we are both extremely tired!
Tomorrow is a shorter day. I sincerely hope we don't get the urge to repeat today's exercise and do a double whammy again! At the moment we are sitting in a bar drinking beer and sorting out the route for tomorrow.
"Dos cervezas más, por favour"!
Our plan today was to spend the night in Rielves, about 25 kms away. Most of the route was either on the roads or on paths by the side of roads. As we neared Rielves we realised we were feeling good enough to try the next town, Novés another 14 Kms further on. In between was the village of Huecas. We headed for that in the hope it would have a bar where we could stock up with more water (it was very hot) and maybe have a bite to eat. This was the worst part of the day. We followed a "Camino rural" which was terribly overgrown and almost impassable at times. This slowed us down considerably but in the end we arrived in Huescas, having drunk our last drop of water! We found an excellent bar where we had a most enjoyable lunch and headed off again. By this time the temperature was beginning to rise to mid thirties and we suffered again as there was not much shade anywhere. Eventually we arrived in Novés at 5:00pm, 11 hours later!
It is not often that we are tempted to try in the region of a 40 km hike. Today we did and I'm delighted to say we succeeded. Our arrival was warmly welcomed by a member of the local Amigos del Camino, Felipe and the local priest, both of whom were very impressed that we had managed such a long trip. We were offered ice cold water and some local delicacies made by Felipe's wife. The priest then took us to the local "albergue" in a Caritas shelter. It's a bit basic but has beds and a shower, which is all we need. I am sure we will sleep soundly tonight as we are both extremely tired!
Tomorrow is a shorter day. I sincerely hope we don't get the urge to repeat today's exercise and do a double whammy again! At the moment we are sitting in a bar drinking beer and sorting out the route for tomorrow.
"Dos cervezas más, por favour"!
Tuesday, 2 June 2015
DAY 22 - RESTING IN TOLEDO
We have now crossed the plains of La Mancha (over 500 Kms) but still a long way to go to Santiago and Finusterre!
Today we are stocking up on a few essentials for the few seven days. It's when you find out that in Spain everything comes in nothing smaller than a half litre bottle! We have also been visiting the superb cathedral here. The wifi signal where we are is too weak to post photos on this page although we have managed a couple on our Facebook page. You can access these by clicking on the photo in the left margin.
This morning we visited the Cathedral, which is beautiful. The rest of the day we have spent tracking down our card reader which our son James had asked Amazon to forward to us in Toledo. In order to get it here on time they sent it by courier although we were under the impression it was coming to the Central Post Office. We had to walk over 2.5 kilometres to the courier offices to collect it as we risked having to stay another day here if we left it up to them!
Tomorrow we leave for Rielves and Noves. If it's too hot (38C expected!) we will stop in Rieves, otherwise we will carry on to Noves. Here's hoping for a cool breeze!
Today we are stocking up on a few essentials for the few seven days. It's when you find out that in Spain everything comes in nothing smaller than a half litre bottle! We have also been visiting the superb cathedral here. The wifi signal where we are is too weak to post photos on this page although we have managed a couple on our Facebook page. You can access these by clicking on the photo in the left margin.
This morning we visited the Cathedral, which is beautiful. The rest of the day we have spent tracking down our card reader which our son James had asked Amazon to forward to us in Toledo. In order to get it here on time they sent it by courier although we were under the impression it was coming to the Central Post Office. We had to walk over 2.5 kilometres to the courier offices to collect it as we risked having to stay another day here if we left it up to them!
Tomorrow we leave for Rielves and Noves. If it's too hot (38C expected!) we will stop in Rieves, otherwise we will carry on to Noves. Here's hoping for a cool breeze!
Monday, 1 June 2015
DÍA 21 - ALMONACID A TOLEDO
Decidimos no volver a Almonacid y caminar hasta Toledo. El autobús sale tarde y hubiéramos tenido que empezar a caminar al mediodía a pleno sol y con calor de más de 33 grados. Hoy nos quedamos en Toledo, la ciudad de las tres culturas: cristiana, judía y musulmana.
Compramos cosas que necesitamos para seguir viaje he hicimos un poco de turismo, visitando entre otros monumentos la iglesia de Santo Tomé donde admiramos la famosa pintura de El Greco 'El Entierro del Señor de Orgaz' y la sinagoga Santa María La Blanca del siglo XII. También nos sellaron las credenciales en la Catedral Primada. Mañana recogeremos el paquete que nos ha enviado James con el reemplazo del dispositivo electrónico que nos robaron en La Gineta. Toda esta semana se celebra Corpus Christi en Toledo y la ciudad está vestida de fiesta con toldos coloridos y espectáculos al aire libre todos los días, culminando con su famosa procesión el miércoles que es cuando seguimos viaje. Nos la perderemos... Lo que más hemos notado es la gran cantidad de gente, la mayoría turistas que hay en la ciudad. Después de más de tres semanas tan solitarias ésta es una sensación muy extraña, un poco agobiante!
Compramos cosas que necesitamos para seguir viaje he hicimos un poco de turismo, visitando entre otros monumentos la iglesia de Santo Tomé donde admiramos la famosa pintura de El Greco 'El Entierro del Señor de Orgaz' y la sinagoga Santa María La Blanca del siglo XII. También nos sellaron las credenciales en la Catedral Primada. Mañana recogeremos el paquete que nos ha enviado James con el reemplazo del dispositivo electrónico que nos robaron en La Gineta. Toda esta semana se celebra Corpus Christi en Toledo y la ciudad está vestida de fiesta con toldos coloridos y espectáculos al aire libre todos los días, culminando con su famosa procesión el miércoles que es cuando seguimos viaje. Nos la perderemos... Lo que más hemos notado es la gran cantidad de gente, la mayoría turistas que hay en la ciudad. Después de más de tres semanas tan solitarias ésta es una sensación muy extraña, un poco agobiante!
DAY 21 - ALMONACID TO TOLEDO - 23KM
"For our path in life is stony and rugged now,and it rests with us to smooth it.We must fight our way onward.We must be brave.There are obstacles to be met,and we must meet and crush them !" - David Copperfield
We finally arrive in Toledo after crossing some 500 Kms of the vast plains of La Mancha!
Last night we could not find anywhere to stay and our UK "extraction team" were unable to make their way to Almonacid to pick us up. We therefore took a bus (the only one) to Toledo, after having to wait six hours, arriving late evening. Our plan was to try to go back this morning. Unfortunately (or otherwise!) the bus timetables did not work out for us and so we have decided to scrap this bit from our itinerary. It is the first time ever we have taken a bus on a Camino but we felt there was no alternative. Sleeping with 'roaches is not something we are prepared to do. In 1992 following the demise of Ceasescu in Romania I went to help severely mentally handicapped children in a home situated in Cezieni some 200 Kms south west of Bucharest. On my first trip we stayed at the Bishops residence in Bucharest. That night I went to the loo. Thinking I should not wake others who were sleeping I did not switch on the lights. Suddenly I felt things starting to scurry around my feet. I switched the light on and found to my horror literally hundreds of cockroaches swarming from a grill on the floor, all over my feet. I still have nightmares about this! I swore then, never again!
I am glad to say our hotel in Toledo is as far away from that scenario as it is possible to get. We had our credenciales stamped at the Cathedral and have done a lot of walking to compensate for the few Kms we have missed. Ana Maria has been tending to her blister by pinching it with a sterilised needle, then passing a piece of thread through it leaving the thread exposed. This will allow the blister to bleed properly. A good dose of antiseptic cream finishes the operation. We have decided to rest here 48 hours to enable full recuperation! We also need to stay at least until tomorrow when hopefully we collect a replacement for the IT bit of equipment that was stolen from us in La Gineta and which our son James has rushed to us to the Poste Restante here. Fingers crossed that it has arrived!
It is a good time to be in Toledo as it is near the feast of Corpus Christi and the town is fully decked out with flags everywhere, in anticipation. Great atmosphere
We finally arrive in Toledo after crossing some 500 Kms of the vast plains of La Mancha!
Last night we could not find anywhere to stay and our UK "extraction team" were unable to make their way to Almonacid to pick us up. We therefore took a bus (the only one) to Toledo, after having to wait six hours, arriving late evening. Our plan was to try to go back this morning. Unfortunately (or otherwise!) the bus timetables did not work out for us and so we have decided to scrap this bit from our itinerary. It is the first time ever we have taken a bus on a Camino but we felt there was no alternative. Sleeping with 'roaches is not something we are prepared to do. In 1992 following the demise of Ceasescu in Romania I went to help severely mentally handicapped children in a home situated in Cezieni some 200 Kms south west of Bucharest. On my first trip we stayed at the Bishops residence in Bucharest. That night I went to the loo. Thinking I should not wake others who were sleeping I did not switch on the lights. Suddenly I felt things starting to scurry around my feet. I switched the light on and found to my horror literally hundreds of cockroaches swarming from a grill on the floor, all over my feet. I still have nightmares about this! I swore then, never again!
I am glad to say our hotel in Toledo is as far away from that scenario as it is possible to get. We had our credenciales stamped at the Cathedral and have done a lot of walking to compensate for the few Kms we have missed. Ana Maria has been tending to her blister by pinching it with a sterilised needle, then passing a piece of thread through it leaving the thread exposed. This will allow the blister to bleed properly. A good dose of antiseptic cream finishes the operation. We have decided to rest here 48 hours to enable full recuperation! We also need to stay at least until tomorrow when hopefully we collect a replacement for the IT bit of equipment that was stolen from us in La Gineta and which our son James has rushed to us to the Poste Restante here. Fingers crossed that it has arrived!
It is a good time to be in Toledo as it is near the feast of Corpus Christi and the town is fully decked out with flags everywhere, in anticipation. Great atmosphere
DAY 20 - VILLANUEVA DE BOGAS TO ALMONACID DE TOLEDO - 22KM
Last night in Villanueva they were celebrating the Castilla La Mancha Day and a folk choral society and dance group had been invited to perform in the town square. They set up an enormous stage during the day, complete with lighting. The group consisted of over 35 performers. When they started there were only about 30 people watching including us. What a shame!
We left at 07:30 this morning, slightly later than usual, after our customary Cafe con Tostadas!The temperature was already in the 20's by then and it climbed all through the morning. The terrain has definitely changed the soft rolling hills of yesterday now turning into steep inclines and descents.
Vineyards still abound but less so with greater abundance of olive groves and fields of wheat. Three hours in we stopped to rest by the gates to a farm. When we were about to leave the farmer turned up. He was a really nice man and we had a good chat. The paths today were much smoother and softer underfoot thanks to the overnight rain.
We went past an enormous gravel pit, completely idle due to today being Sunday. At 13:00 we arrived in Almonacid. It is a small town of 901 people with the most enormous church. We had our "credencial" stamped by the local priest and then made some enquiries about somewhere to spend the night. We were directed first to the local "Alcalde" (the Mayor) and then to one of his aides, who took us to the local swimming pool complex where we were shown into some changing rooms. There were no mats on the floor, the showers and toilets were indescribably dirty and when we saw the place was crawling with cockroaches we decided it was time to move on.
A Spaniard and a Pole who have been following our footsteps caught up with us today. They decided to carry on to see if a local "Ermita" could put them up. They phoned to confirm this was not possible. To carry on to Toledo today would mean another 30Kms on top of the 22 we have already done. Too much for us! We have decided therefore to take a bus to Toledo and then see if there is a combination that will bring us back here tomorrow to continue our journey. The only bus leaving today is at 7.20 pm so we are marking time in a bar until its time to go! They'll probably have to carry me to the bus!
We left at 07:30 this morning, slightly later than usual, after our customary Cafe con Tostadas!The temperature was already in the 20's by then and it climbed all through the morning. The terrain has definitely changed the soft rolling hills of yesterday now turning into steep inclines and descents.
Vineyards still abound but less so with greater abundance of olive groves and fields of wheat. Three hours in we stopped to rest by the gates to a farm. When we were about to leave the farmer turned up. He was a really nice man and we had a good chat. The paths today were much smoother and softer underfoot thanks to the overnight rain.
We went past an enormous gravel pit, completely idle due to today being Sunday. At 13:00 we arrived in Almonacid. It is a small town of 901 people with the most enormous church. We had our "credencial" stamped by the local priest and then made some enquiries about somewhere to spend the night. We were directed first to the local "Alcalde" (the Mayor) and then to one of his aides, who took us to the local swimming pool complex where we were shown into some changing rooms. There were no mats on the floor, the showers and toilets were indescribably dirty and when we saw the place was crawling with cockroaches we decided it was time to move on.
A Spaniard and a Pole who have been following our footsteps caught up with us today. They decided to carry on to see if a local "Ermita" could put them up. They phoned to confirm this was not possible. To carry on to Toledo today would mean another 30Kms on top of the 22 we have already done. Too much for us! We have decided therefore to take a bus to Toledo and then see if there is a combination that will bring us back here tomorrow to continue our journey. The only bus leaving today is at 7.20 pm so we are marking time in a bar until its time to go! They'll probably have to carry me to the bus!
DÍA 20 - VILLANUEVA DE BOGAS A ALMONACID DE TOLEDO
Anoche celebraron el día de Castilla La Mancha en la plaza principal. Un grupo de cantantes y bailarines vestidos con trajes típicos vinieron a alegrar la noche. Lástima que demoraron el comienzo y sólo vimos un poco del espectáculo. Teníamos que ir a dormir! No había mucha gente del pueblo mirando, era la final de la copa de fútbol!!
Salimos a las 7.30 después de tomar el desayuno sabiendo que no encontraríamos nada de camino. Lamentablemente era tostada de pan Bimbo lo que con aceite no va!
Hoy había más colinas (sube y baja) pero no nos demoraron mucho. Gran cantidad de olivos por esta parte. Conocimos y charlamos con Basilio, el dueño de una pequeña finca, un hombre muy simpático al que no le importó que nos hubiéramos sentado a descansar en la entrada de su finca, único lugar con sombra! Antes de llegar a Almonacid pasamos por unas canteras de grava enormes. Todo tranquilo hoy por ser domingo. Al llegar al pueblo de Almonacid vimos al párroco a punto de cerrar la iglesia quien nos llevó a su casa para sellarnos las credenciales. Nos informó que no hay albergue en la ermita de la virgen de la Oliva y nos dirigió al alcalde quien llamó a Emilio, el encargado de la acogida en la piscina municipal para que nos diera la llave. Una habitación/vestuario en no muy buenas condiciones, sin colchonetas pero con duchas de agua caliente. Cuando examinamos los baños y duchas encontramos todo muy sucio y... CUCARACHAS! Esto ya era demasiado para nosotros así que decidimos seguir a Toledo en autobús. Almorzamos en un bar y después esperamos el único autobús de la tarde, a las 19.20. Larga espera... Mañana trataremos de volver para continuar el camino si es que esto es posible.
Salimos a las 7.30 después de tomar el desayuno sabiendo que no encontraríamos nada de camino. Lamentablemente era tostada de pan Bimbo lo que con aceite no va!
Hoy había más colinas (sube y baja) pero no nos demoraron mucho. Gran cantidad de olivos por esta parte. Conocimos y charlamos con Basilio, el dueño de una pequeña finca, un hombre muy simpático al que no le importó que nos hubiéramos sentado a descansar en la entrada de su finca, único lugar con sombra! Antes de llegar a Almonacid pasamos por unas canteras de grava enormes. Todo tranquilo hoy por ser domingo. Al llegar al pueblo de Almonacid vimos al párroco a punto de cerrar la iglesia quien nos llevó a su casa para sellarnos las credenciales. Nos informó que no hay albergue en la ermita de la virgen de la Oliva y nos dirigió al alcalde quien llamó a Emilio, el encargado de la acogida en la piscina municipal para que nos diera la llave. Una habitación/vestuario en no muy buenas condiciones, sin colchonetas pero con duchas de agua caliente. Cuando examinamos los baños y duchas encontramos todo muy sucio y... CUCARACHAS! Esto ya era demasiado para nosotros así que decidimos seguir a Toledo en autobús. Almorzamos en un bar y después esperamos el único autobús de la tarde, a las 19.20. Larga espera... Mañana trataremos de volver para continuar el camino si es que esto es posible.
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